This might be a better angle.

I can’t imagine how’d you’d link them up, without having to reach inside the case, and having it modular.

Ideally the zig zag isn’t there, but did you see the before?

I have basically taken a power strip, and made each plug a module.

The inside of a power strip, like in this image, is in series.

mains → yellow → red → blue → green → blue(end)

If a join between yellow and red is broken, it knocks out red and everything after it.

If what is plugged into yellow is plugged out, or disconnects everything else keeps working.

The same is true for my setup, the joins between Yellow, red etc. are just on the outside of the case, so you can disconnect them if you want, which would kill the power to what is after it. But you don’t have to do that.

Uggg don’t give me ideas, I’ve already sunk way too much time into designing this 😅️🤣

So you could just put a relay between my power-module and your server, and it’s problem solved.

A redesign to incorporate one of these would be great, there are also variants that monitor power draw, so you’d be able to see each servers power usage and switch it on or off remotely.

Why are you doing this to me?

My setup is as resilient as this would be:

I haven’t added any failure-modes

My surname is Erasmus

Yea each one runs through the previous module, so all the power goes through the first module.

IEC 13/14 connectors are rated for 10A (2300 W at 230 V) which isn’t much lower than what you can run through your wall outlet. And in reality they can probably handle 15A(What your wall can handle) as they are commonly refereed to as “Kettle cords” and used by kettles which draw ~13 Amps.

That’s very high, to give you an idea the 6 things I have plugged in draws ~240w, so I could chain up ~60 mini PC’s and only then would I be over the ~2300w limit.

I do now mention this in the Safety section of my “How to build this” write up

Thanks yea I made sure to add this Safety section to my write-up on how to build this yourself, and I reference back to it a lot, so it’s painfully clear.

I printed this in PETG which can take the heat easily, but ideally you use UL 94 V-0 which is also flame retardant.

I did make sure everything is very well insulated, and pulled hard on every connection to make sure it’s held down properly.

**Safety**  

This part carries live mains. Mains wiring kills people who get it wrong, and a fault in a printed enclosure can start a fire.  

Do not build it unless you are competent to wire mains and permitted to do so where you live. Sleeve or shroud all live terminals. PLA softens around 60 °C, PETG around 80 °C. Neither is flame retardant. Only a UL 94 V-0 filament is.  

Wire the protective earth if anything you plug in needs it.  

Build it at your own risk. I take no responsibility for injury, death, fire, or damage resulting from anything in this repository.  

Preemptively responding to this, because I just know there’s going to be a comment about this.

Yes Yes I know, GitHub, screw GitHub, Screw Microslop. I am trying to move away from Big Tech as much as possible, but it’s a marathon not a sprint, and every win should be celebrated.

Perfection is the enemy of good.
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