This is the model I used: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4572809
I printed these by using the official orca profile from Creality for Orca Slicer: https://wiki.creality.com/en/ender-series/ender-3-v3/quick-start-guide/how-to-use-orca-slicer-with-ender-3-v3
- Why are the squares looking so wonky? Which setting is responsible for this?
- I see some spots where the prints moved to other places, but I run bed leveling every time. Is it bed warp, or some other profile setting I need to tweak? I wiped the bed with 70% isopropyl alcohol before I printed this, btw
EDIT:
Looks like the issue was with the wobbly table. I placed it on the floor, reran the self tests, and it’s now printing a lot better!
Honestly, I gave up on dealing with bed adhesion issues on fine parts and just use a glue stick on the bed.
Also, what does this mean?
It means it has measured your bed and the left side of your bed is higher than the right. Don’t get twisted about the graphic as it can exaggerate the shape. Look at the numbers. I don’t know off the top of my head if those are excessive
I see you cleaned the bed with IPA. I’d also recommend dish soap and water. I was struggling with adhesion on a new bed from Prusa, and soap fully fixed my issue.
It looks like you’ve fixed, it, but I’ll share my 2c anyway:
Iso takes much longer to evaporate fully than it looks. Even though it’s volatile, the texture of the build plate gives a lot of extra surface area for it to cling to. Because of this, I found that waiting overnight after cleaning with iso was a good idea. At least for me, this completely fixed my adhesion problems.
Iso takes much longer to evaporate fully than it looks
If you let iso evaporate it isn’t doing anything. The purpose of iso or dish soap is to dissolve oils. If you let the iso evaporate the oils will be left behind and settle back on the build plate.
I use two paper towels. One to wipe with iso, and the other to wipe the iso away.
If you want a fast dry (iso is 10% water) set the bed temp to 100C for a few seconds.
Of course, but it doesn’t all wipe away. The remaining part is what you need to make sure evaporates.
Clean the printing surface with dish soap and tepid water, and adjust your z offset. It appears to be too low from what I can see, but it’s hard to tell from a few pictures. It’s not supposed to be 0, and will depend on your specific printer, extruder, … You should aim to have fully filled squares, with no apparent “scars” on the surface left by the hotend moves. A nice rule of thumb is to be able to barely move a sheet of paper between your plate and the hotend freely without feeling friction (make sure to clean the tip of the hotend before). If after these steps it still produces these results, maybe there is an issue with you bed planarity, but most likely your pla has gone bad (I’ve even seen sealed bags go bad over a few years), try with a freshly dried filament, or a new roll from a reputable source
Wiping the bed with alcohol doesn’t really remove any contamination from its surface, it more or less just moves it around. Wash it thoroughly with dish soap and running water as others have suggested and give it a real good rinse afterwards. The goal is to get oils and other contaminants off of the surface and to wash them down the drain, whence they will trouble you no more.
It looks like you’re either way too close to the bed or your nozzle needs to be replaced. Looks like massive over extrusion. Fat fat print lines. Your model has no printing in the diagonal yet your print has it in almost every square. Maybe you’re failing to retraction.
I think the issue is at least partly due to a wobbly table. I just took off the printer and placed it on the floor, redid the self test, and it’s printing a lot better than before.
Ha. I was looking at the wrong picture in the linked thingiverse file. It does fill them in. That does look better.
