That’s what I get for not checking my vat before starting a print right after another one.
Edit: For those that don’t know there’s supposed to be a nice little screen sized rectangle visible without the fancy looking lowercase “t” pattern.
The screen is broken and needs replacement. So does the FEP as it didn’t fair too well either but I already have a few on hand just in case things go sideways.
Edit 2: For anyone who’s curious the whole process took me 2 hours to complete. I went in blind and it’s good as new if not better. Honestly it’s working hella good to the point where I actually had to lower my exposure time because my stuff was now getting overexposed. It’s amazing what a new FEP and LCD will do.
I don’t own an SLA printer. Where is the fuckup?
From context, I’m guessing that there were broken parts of the print in the back, obscured by the resin. When the bed came down to start the new print, it pushed the broken parts from the last one into the screen, breaking it.
Basically exactly what happened.
I didn’t even notice the bits missing from the print as it was still being rinsed in the alcohol.
The head of one of the minis I was printing for a friend popped off and I didn’t notice before starting the second batch of dudes and then CRUNCH $70 dollars for a new part to be on the way.
Edit: Unfortunately I’m familiar with the crunch of an LCD panel. I’ve broken a few but this is the first one on my resin printer. It lasted about a year before I broke it.
Seems like the manufacturers should be able to take advantage of the stepper driver’s current sensing and stop the movement if it detects a high load before the bed is all the way down and before it applies enough pressure to crack the screen.
With Trinamic drivers you can do sensorless homing using this same load sensing feature, though in your case you’d need a homing sensor to detect whether the bed actually made it all the way down.
Yeah my filament printers do sensorless homing (they’re modded to frig) and it made me really wish my resin printer could do the same but there isn’t an open source board I could swap in there (as far as I know) so I’m just going to have to keep being careful with my current resin printer.