Yeah that immediately looks way under-extruded to me.

Also that wood stuff (from what I read) clogs terribly.

Is it not safe to expose externally with ssl yet?

It would be a crying shame if someone were to figure out a way to force those e ink displays to refresh fast enough that it kills the batteries on those things…

So how long till the Supremes rule that CBP is not only allowed to search your phone but also to perform colonoscopies at checkpoints 100 miles inland and sell the resulting videos to extremely wealthy perverts?

Beyond any issues with the owner of the company, these cars have multiple dangerous issues.

You cannot treat a company that makes physical stuff that can endanger lives the same way you treat a software company that makes a leisure activity platform.

Iterative design for a purely software environment is way more forgiving than iterative design for physical hardware or even software that interacts with physical hardware. You can profoundly fuck up the backend for a website and take the whole thing down until you could roll back to last known good production, you won’t kill anyone, but you’ll make the line go down temporarily.

If you profoundly fuck up an iteration on an embedded vehicle system and don’t catch it because you don’t respect safety regulation or existing engineering norms you can and will kill people.

Analogue doesn’t have firmware that can reject a device based on id.

So you can reverse engineer a replacement part if you absolutely have to.

It’s counterintuitive to growing an instance maybe.

The whole idea is that there is no centralization.

It (the fediverse) is de-centralized.

The point is that there’s no one entity in charge.

You don’t have to leave the fediverse because you don’t like an instance. You’re free to start your own communities and/or instances anywhere else, no one is obligated to tolerate anyone and everyone in their space.

Each instance gets to be its own fiefdom to an extent. If you’re shitty enough to a wide enough audience or you tolerate shitty users you might be defederated, but for the most part as a mod you get to decide the rules for your server.

In this particular instance the mod decided to ban someone for whatever reason, maybe it was being a lib, maybe they were annoying a mod, it doesn’t really matter.

The cool thing is that you can avoid the instance if you want, or block it so you don’t have to see anything from it, or start your own instance with blackjack… And hookers. The options are unlimited.

Generally speaking I do things myself because it’s cheaper, in that it lets me allocate cash in higher quality versions of things than I would otherwise be able to afford. I grew up pretty poor and that was how my family did things. Car breaks, that’s why you buy a Chilton’s. Appliance isn’t working? You can always order the part for a tenth of what it costs to have the appliance guy tell you what’s wrong. AC quit working? Those capacitors are super easy to replace and only cost $7.

Now I could pay people to do more things for me, but it’s only under certain circumstances.

Sometimes it just boils down to something my Dad told me underneath a car (or a house maybe) like 30 years ago: “Nobody is gonna care about your shit more than you do.”

Alas, I cannot grow hair on the top of my head, so I must grow it on the bottom.

With that one (creality textured glass carborundum something or other) I kept hitting it with 95%+ IPA, it just gives out eventually. I switched to a textured spring steel plate recently, world of difference for petg, PLA, and tpu. It’s just another consumable :/

If you’re not ready to switch yet a layer of masking tape can get you by for awhile, it’s just a pain because the masking tape will need to be replaced about every other print depending on your settings.

It looks like a glass carborundum Creality plate. I have one of them, they work really well until one day they just don’t.

What did you do to that poor build plate?!?

You can tell by the pixels.

It’s 0.2 layer height, I wanna say it was 3 layers, but it could have been 4. The green I’m using is opaque at even one layer with these settings though

Our Ford, hallowed be thy name.

Make sure to thank him for the unhinged antisemitic conspiracies too.

They’re manual changes. Annoying, but they work for basic stuff.

Gotta be able to boot Nazis. Otherwise it’ll be Nazi bar.

I’m excited to introduce you to this if you haven’t seen it!

https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html

I use this as a general guide for every time I buy a new material, manufacturer, and/or color of filament. There’s YouTube videos explaining everything every step of the way.

For a new printer (or significant modifications) I’d go through the whole thing. For new filament, if I haven’t used it before, I do flow calibration, temperature tuning, retraction tuning, pressure/linear advance tuning, and max flow tuning, not necessarily in that order. I’ve found that as I’ve learned and experimented more I’ve branched out into more esoteric tools for some things.

My filament printer is a fairly heavily modified ender 3 pro (spider hotend, direct drive, dual z axis, spring steel bed, solid bed spacers, herome gen 7 cooler, cr touch, stepper driver diodes, and an adxl345 waiting for me to mount and wire it… I think that’s it). So I’m not saying this as a Creality hater, I love my ender, I hate their software and firmware. I had a terrible time with their Marlin firmware and ended up building it myself. I’ve since switched to klipper though and highly recommend it, it got me a reasonable quality benchy in around 30 minutes.

My point there is that I have had a hard time with the default profiles across the board, even before the mods. For filament printing I use Prusaslicer, though I do like Superslicer and Orcaslicer seems nice as well, I just have all my profiles built for Prusaslicer and it generally just works.

I’m only adding this because I don’t already see someone mentioning it.

My first thought was bed leveling, because that’s always the first thing, especially with weird surface artifacts.

But looking at the bridging “above” the text and the gaps in the interface between the solid infill and your perimeters I suspect that you’ve got some under-extrusion going on.

Have you tuned your filament? If not I recommend giving that a shot and seeing if it doesn’t clear up those issues.

ETA: I’ve also found that with text printed on the base I have way better luck when I cut it about 1mm deep (for 0.2mm layer heights)