They can’t control if the encryption keys are stored in plaintext?

Why is Signal almost universally defended whenever another security flaw is discovered? They’re not secure, they don’t address security issues, and their business model is unsustainable in the long term.

But, but, if you have malware “you have bigger problems”. But, but, an attacker would have to have “physical access” to exploit this. Wow, such bullshit. Do some of you people really understand what you’re posting?

But, but, “windows is compromised right out of the box”. Yes…and?

But, but, “Signal doesn’t claim to be secure”. Fuck off, yes they do.

But, but, “just use disk encryption”. Just…no…WTF?

Anybody using Signal for secure messaging is misguided. Any on of your recipients could be using the desktop app and there’s no way to know unless they tell you. On top of that, all messages filter through Signal’s servers, adding a single-point-of-failure to everything. Take away the servers, no more Signal.

Plus, my (indoor) cat can’t help but have a loud, boisterous conversation with any cat that wanders through my yard. Usually at 2am while I’m trying to sleep.

They have these in Amsterdam. Each room comes with its own maid.

It’s really too bad I’m unable to update my firmware until I agree to let ASUS sell my data.

You’re already familiar with Kodi, so install that on your Android TV. I have an Nvidia Shield with Kodi, and it just plays movies straight from my server. You should be able to use the TV’s remote to control Kodi without worrying about the VPN.

I can’t wait until holographic storage comes in spheres, and you have to bring it to an old Gypsy woman if you forget the encryption key.

Do they accept NFTs?

Steady, unrelenting emotional abuse.

Can’t leave it outside, for obvious reasons.

NHTSA references several SAE standards in their regulations, but they don’t update the references very often, if ever. Many of the referenced standards date back to versions from the '70s and '80s. Back around 2012 I contacted SAE to find out if they provided a package of standards incorporated by reference in NHTSA regulations. I was told they don’t provide such a package, and they couldn’t even sell me the individual standards I needed because they were “out of date”. My only option through SAE was to buy the latest version.

Shortly afterwards Public.Resource.Org posted the standards, and I copied them. But I thought they had lost their court case.

Nice to find out I was wrong.

“Bad” memory that lasts 45 years in interplanetary space.

#BringVoyagerHome

I was on PIA, but they were bought by Kape a few years ago. Kape, previously known as Crossrider. Crossrider, known primarily for developing adware and PUPs.

Here’s my Reddit Gold. 🪙 One share please!

I’ve had a couple: a cheap Anet A8 clone, and a Prusa MK3. I did ABS and PLA on the A8, and PLA and PETG on the Prusa. My Prusa is now outdated, and I don’t have the A8 anymore. Both printers look the same to a layman. Here’s what I know.

The A8 was dirt cheap. Like $250 cheap. I think the Prusa was about $600 a couple years later. The print size was the same or very close on both, (250x250, 210 high).

The A8 relies on manual bed leveling. It sucked. The Prusa has a magnetic sensor that creates a level map in firmware and adjusts the printhead to follow the warp of the bed automatically for every print.

The A8 has an aluminum bed. It required kapton tape, or gluestick, or some way to get the print to adhere to the bed. I eventually used a sheet of glass with gluestick. The Prusa has a PEI bed, that just works as long as it’s clean.

Both of them have an E3D hotend with interchangeable nozzles using an M6 thread. Not the easiest thing to swap, but pretty simple anyway. The built-in Z-correction on the Prusa only selects for a few standard nozzle sizes (.25, .4(standard), .6, .8, and maybe 1.0). That’s a good range and probably enough. You can also forgo the built-in Z-adjustment and use any number of first-layer calibration models on the internet.

Both of them have a heated bed. And of course heated nozzle. You’ll have to check the temperature ranges yourself and see if your materials match.

You’ll have to select a Slicer program to use with your printer. I used Cura with the A8, and Prusaslicer with the Prusa. It’s up to you if you want to tinker more (Cura) or just print (Prusaslicer). There are so many options here, it’s impossible to touch on them all. This is where you adjust the layer height, and as long as your Z-axis motors can handle the fine adjustments it should be fine.

Neither come with an enclosure, which is something to consider for certain materials. I built one for my Prusa out of an IKEA table, to keep furry family members out of it.

In all, I wouldn’t recommend the A8 as a beginner printer. I had a lot of frustrations with it. Bed adhesion, bed leveling, belt tension. Very few successful prints, but I learned what I wanted for my next printer. The Prusa “just works”, and I’ve had it for 5+ years now. There was also a concern with the A8 setting things on fire. The Prusa firmware can detect temperature runaway and abort automatically.

As a hobbyist, consider how much time you want to spend upgrading the printer. Both of these have a lot of “home-brew” parts on the internet allowing you to add various features (belt tension adjustment, better part cooling, etc.) My MK3 is now an MK3S+, and still going strong. I’m considering if I want to upgrade this to the MK4.

Can you expand on this? There used to be multiple electron beams in every house in America.

Wow, really? Do they expect you to finance a mortgage with existing credit?

If you can be a good boy/girl, get a credit card. Start with something that returns actual value, like a grocery store card or gas card. Something you can use for ABSOLUTELY EVERYTHING and then use the points or cash-back or whatever on necessities. Pay your bills with it, buy your groceries, use it everywhere you can.

Now, here’s the important part: pay the statement balance IN FULL on or before the due date. If you pay the statement balance every month, you’re basically getting a short term, 0% interest loan, and building your credit score at the same time.

Oh, and never get a credit card with any kind of annual fee or membership requirements. And when I said useful, I didn’t mean the Belle Tire card that gives you discounts on tires. WTF Belle Tire, how many tires do you think I’m going to buy?

In case you missed the part where I told you to pay off the statement every month, here it is again. Pay off the statement every month. No excuses. If you can’t pay for something in cash, don’t buy it with the card. Once you miss a payment, they start charging that ridiculous interest rate on everything you buy on the day you buy it. Once you miss a payment, you must STOP USING THE CARD until the balance is zero.

But if I find out you’re carrying a balance, I’ll find you and kick your ass myself.

You will absolutely not understand what’s going on in #3.

That being said, the books aren’t perfect sequels to each other, so don’t expect exacting continuity.

Have you seen the movies? That could be a basis for reading the 3rd book, but it’s been so long I don’t remember any details that you would miss.

Cancel Prime

Add ‘Personal Blocklist’ to your browser, block Amazon from search results (although ‘Google Hit Hider’ for Greasemonkey works better)

Amazon hasn’t managed to get any of my orders to me in fewer than 3 days for over a year. I just put together some computer parts using PCPartsPicker, and Amazon wasn’t the cheapest option on anything. There’s no advantage to using them anymore. They treat their employees like shit, they treat their suppliers like shit, and they force anyone selling through Amazon Marketplace to agree to some seriously fucked up shit.