I use this one. There are probably better ones, but now I have holders and cases for them, so there’s no going back now.

I do the same thing with low poly brains (and a swatch card). I’m tempted to order one roll of each filament I used before starting this, but that would be hard to justify. My collection shall be forever incomplete.

Generally, if someone’s being a total asshole so severely that they have to be yeeted with several thousand other unaware bystanders, I expect to see a bunch of examples within the first… 2, maybe 3, links.

If someone can point me to a concise list of examples (actual data), I find it more disturbing that an admin on another server can yeet my account because they make noise on a discord server.I mean, yes, federating is a feature, but why even offer the ability to enroll users? Maybe for a group of friends, or something, but just rando users is nothing but a liability to everyone involved.

Oh, I understand the tactics being used. I was implying that person c was obviously stalking person a and pounced the moment they did something less than perfect.

My guess is there isn’t anything of substance, so person c’s sensitivity got amplified with time and obsessing over whatever is going on, leading them to overreact. But, not c has to double down if they want any chance of being taken seriously if a significant cause to defederate occurs.

I got around 5 links deep for each of the links in the admin’s post, and fuck if I know. There was an argumentative user, but they were articulate and thoughtful. Not dropping slurs or wasting space nonsense, but still bordering on “edgy”. The person pushing the defederation appeared to be bullying them and on a power trip.

It was embarrassing. That’s all I took away. (My opinion can change if someone digs through the shitpiles of nothingness to pull up some actual naughty posts, but that’s not going to be me.)

I almost thought I had written your comment and completely forgot about it. No, I just almost made the exact comment and want that hour of my life back.

If there was some over the top racist rant, I sure didn’t see it. And the admin pushing for the defederation sounds so bizarre. Bizarre is the best word I could come up with because “petty” makes me think it was like high school politics. This is closer to a grade school sandbox argument.

The worst I saw was “defedfags” and it was used in a way that was meant to highlight how they never said anything offensive. Like saying, “If you thought what I said before was offensive, let’s see how you respond to something intended to be negative.”

The crazy thing is that the decision is being made because the admin just liked a post. It’s not even because of the post content - which has nothing controversial and appeared maybe 8 times in my Lemmy/kbin feed yesterday.

Editing to add that this is the article: https://kbin.social/search?q=wakeup+call

Thank you so much for this! It reminded me to revisit my library’s general resources and look specifically for which archive collections they had available. I’m 1 state over, so I figured there was a good chance we would have Newspapers.com Library Edition access here.

The main/default collection my library sent me to was no help, but they had a Newspapers.com Library Edition portal listed further down. Final-fucking-ly got it. I really, really appreciate the help.

I’m sure it’s a fine service, if you want to use it regularly, but I just wanted 1 tiny thing. If they had a $1 for an obit or a page deal, sure. Instead, there’s this whole microcosm of bullshit where some are archived, others available, some omitted from public collections, some on different 3rd party sites, etc.

The family paid for an obit. It wasn’t in the 1800s. The paper has been digitized. I should be able to go to the paper with the name, exact date, and city and find it. They literally say it doesn’t exist. Not that it’s on our archive site or our partner site, just nothing.

I would have thrown a couple bucks to any of the sites for access, but no, I need to sign up for a subscription, give them all my details, get spam calls for the next 100 years, just no. Super frustrating.

I really like the all screen infotainment idea, but the implementation is always shitty. Part is because they still won’t fully commit to the strengths of the interface, and part is cost. Well, screens are much cheaper now. No need to settle for a 5 inch shit tier TN panel. I want a big, honkin, high contrast, ambient light modulated brightness screen with a minimal set of buttons to switch the interface between tasks.

Personally, I HATE every dial system I’ve ever used and miss my old Prius’s touch screen. It had nice, big on-screen buttons and almost all functionality duplicated through the steering wheel. Instead of hitting a button 20 times or spinning a dial 2.24123 rotations to select the option I wanted, it was 2 taps. No rubberbanding around my intended selection or trying to compensate for whatever acceleration algorithm they used.

Right now, I have a trackpad on the center console and I hate it. The acceleration is bizarre. It snaps the some elements, but seems to not like others. It miss clicks because I bump it or something partially rests on it. Every time I use it, I have to get a feel for where I’m touching it - am I off in a corner, on the edge, in the middle.

Simply adding some dynamic buttons like a Streamdeck (little screens on each button) would solve many of the problems. Have the function and image change with the domain you’re customizing (Audio, AC, etc.). After that, allow more customization of the elements within each domain. Maybe some of them need to step up their steering wheel buttons game.

There’s also the subtle muscle memory advantage to screens. Screen of buttons, you have to still look at the target, reach to the target, and activate the switch. In the case of dials, you have to performs a different action to undo an error. You never get to repeat the proper initial action - turning to the right selection based on feedback of success. With touch controls, most errors either resolve by repeating the motion you intended correctly, or moving back a screen/reverting an element and repeating the intended motion.

I think many people assume that the tactile feedback of running your fingers over the buttons matters. In reality, I don’t see many people do that. The feedback of a selection or click is nice, but by now everyone’s had gummy keyboards, cheap electronics, and a bunch of different button-covered devices. That click confirmation isn’t anywhere near as reliable as audio cues. Hell, there can be 10 different types of buttons in the car with varying resistances and actuation distances.

Oh, and I’d like to se a study testing if the presence of constant, slow animations are less distracting that static images for consoles. I think a large part of the distraction is how sudden things can change on a screen. Like loading the next music track changes the time marker, the album art, etc. It you become accustomed to perceiving motion in that location, it may reduce the urge to orient to sudden changes.

Anyhoo, I’m rambling. Sleepy time for me.

I just tried it again on desktop and it worked, but the reason was that I downloaded an extension a while ago and forgot about it. When I disabled the extension, it stopped working.

There used to be a way to enable installing any extension on mobile FFx Dev, but I’m not sure if that still works. The desktop extension just changes the user agent string, so that might be another route to enabling it.

I use the ChatGPT feature from desktop Firefox with no problems. Maybe it specifically denies Chrome, in which case I bet you could change the user agent string and get it to work.

I use AliExpress for electrical parts (except anything with memory), 3D printer parts, and small crap I don’t mind waiting for, but never anything I would be angry about if it never arrived. Also, nothing I consume or wear or need for safety, and I’m wary of anything that’s supposed to be plugged into the wall for long periods of time unattended.

I wouldn’t say I’ve been surprised, but my expectations are low. It’s all cheap stuff, but as long as you’re not needing the stuff you buy, it’s fine. Dollar store quality with the scent of plastic and cigarettes.

That being said, beware of scams. The one that seems acceptable to them is to list one cheap part for the listing, along with variations of the full device. That way it looks like the lowest price in search results, but when you click it, the selected variation is the cheap part. Like, you’ll search for “pliers set” and see a listing for $1, compared to others around $15. When you select it, the product page will have a carrying case for $1 and the various pliers for twice as much as the competition. What’s better is that the case will be selected automatically, not the thing in the picture you clicked on or the picture you see first in the product pages’ gallery.

There are also scam stores that pop up with super low prices compared to others on the site can disappear overnight and the cancellation/refund process is a super pain. Contact customer service once and just submit a claim with your CC company. Their refund process will try to keep telling you to wait for another week, and that includes the reps you get on chat. If you’re suspicious and still order, always follow the shipping info. They will estimate a reasonable delivery date, you’ll get a shipping notification, but it will sit in limbo. The shipping folks are separate from the scammers, so if you see the package actually move towards a shipping center, you’re in the clear. If it says they received shipping information for over a week, you got screwed.

Ignore flash drives/SSDs, batteries, and assume any flashlights are 1/100th the brightness claimed (literally). Oh, and watch shipping costs. Something with free shipping can be 10x the price of the product if you add a second one to your cart.

I looked into this before with a similar deal by a 3rd party seller on Amazon. The enterprise drives (I was looking at those EXOS drives, too) must be sold by the manufacturer certified reseller or you run the chance of getting zero warranty. That being said, I’ve seen plenty of conflicting stories by people that bought them and needed to submit an RMA. I’d say it was a 60/40 split of honoring the warranty to not honoring it.

Long story short, it’s a gamble. They’re likely good drives, but you’re rolling the dice if something goes wrong with them.

A BambuLabs X1 Carbon (a nice printer that would be great if they didn’t close source it)
A modded Voxelab Aquila (Ender3v2 clone used to learn, break, and train my patience)
I’m thinking Voron next, but I’ll see what’s out there when it’s time to expand.

That’s what I started on (well, a knock off clone) and I still say it’s a great printer if you want to learn 3D printing.

Now, if you want to actually print right after buying, no no no. Not a good fit.

It’s basically a set of parts that can be cheaply replaced, but measured properly (mostly) and lets you avoid putting together a BOM. Plus, there are tons of them out there, so lots of community support and many cheap, occasionally working, 3rd party upgrades.

I feel like it taught me the mindset of FDM troubleshooting and how the parts/variables interacted with each other. It was $150 a few years ago, so it’s great for screwing up and figuring out what you want in your first real printer. It also has a lot of potential and folks that have modded them to actually run well, so it helped me figure out where I fell on the “It just works” to “Let’s test these 200 different hotend fan duct designs” spectrum and which features were most important to me.

Yes, you’re printing on Hard Mode. PETG is weird at first, but easy-ish later on. Some veterans tend to treat it like no big deal, but it can be a real stumbling block for some. I know it took me a while.

I’ve tried to warn people about them. I got a 10 pack early on while learning and it almost made me give up the hobby. Classic n00b mistakes? Some, but after I set that filament aside in a drybox, I had almost no problems. The only mistakes I made with those other brands were due to strategies I developed to rescue prints from IIIDMax’s garbage. I must have used 10-20 other brands over the next year, revisiting the cursed spools occasionally.

I thought I could relegate the leftovers to my 3D pen. Somehow that satan-spawned plastic jammed it up. The pen is basically a soldering iron, a motor, and 2 gears. I’ve fed strips of PETG bottles cut by hand through it. The filament wasn’t precise enough for my no precision 3D pen.

Oh, you poor thing. I made the same mistake. I know, I know, PETG logically makes the most sense - no fumes, higher temp tolerance, cheap - but save yourself weeks of misery and stick with PLA or PLA Plus/Pro/+ for a few months. PETG is a special beast. For all the shit PLA gets, it’s not that bad and MUCH easier to learn printing with.

PETG is more viscous and sticky, and generally requires its own z-offset tuning and retraction tweaks. On top of that, it needs juuuuust enough heat to melt the Bowden tube, which happens to make it really tempting to pop a few prints. I’m pretty sure I invented new curse words while trying to clean out that mess.

PETG was the second filament I tried. The first was Silk PLA. It’s PLA, but shiny, no biggie, right? Don’t learn on Silk PLA either. Completely different set of problems. Silk PLA to PLA is like Frosted Fakes to cake frosting.

Just my $0.02. I know I was all excited to print mods for the printer right away, but I’ve ended up replacing all those mods with MUCH better ones 6 months later. Good luck!

Edit: Forgot to mention, make sure you use glue stick or hairspray on the bed. PETG will bond strong enough to take some of the bed surface with it!

Automatic flow calibration is so nice. I don’t use any of the other “smart” features, but it’s worth the extra cost just for that.

Yes and no.

I use a ton of different brands, so I always print a temp tower and a swatch card. I can’t keep track of which word salad brand on Amazon is rebadged SunLu or eSun. I could totally see people that stick to only a couple brands doing a full calibration for each type and brand (maybe not color always, but I would do a quick comparison white-gray-black and anything exotic).