I’m running out the door, so sorry for keeping this a little terse. Just wanted to throw out some things for you to potentially look into with regards to your USB-C port in case you were about to send this PCB off for fabbing.

1 - Consider including an ESD Protection chip. It’s a small IC which you pass your data lines through. It can help protect your microcontroller in case there’s some static electricity in the cable you’re plugging in.

2 - There’s a variety of different detection mechanisms and handshakes in USB-C to identify the amount of power a USB-C device supports. Adding a pair of 5.1K resistors to the CC1 and CC2 pins on your USB-C port will definitively tell the device on the other end that your keyboard is a simple USB 2 device and should get a nice chill 5V. Some devices will default to providing 5V is CC1 and CC2 are left floating, but others are more picky. Adding the two 5.1K resistors will help make sure you don’t run into any trouble with a USB-C to USB-C cable.

3 - I’m less confident on the specifics of this one, so maybe do a bit of research yourself. Most of the USB-C implementations I’ve seen on keyboards tie the redundant pins on the USB-C port together. I believe some of these are only connected when the cable’s face up, and others are only connected when the cable’s face down. Routing them together on your board will make sure you don’t run into any trouble with cheap USB-C to USB-A cables.

Here’s a quick example of those three items in action. (Ignore the weird vias and disconnected ground nets. I deleted the fill to make it easier to read.)

Sorry to post and run. Hope that helps!

Just mashing together shape primitives and Thingiverse parts in TinkerCAD is entirely underrated. It’s still primarily what I use unless I need particularly curvy corner.

Fusion360 and FreeCAD are the CAD versions of Photoshop and GIMP (if Photoshop had a restricted free tier). They’re both trying to be a legit piece of CAD software, so there’s a bit of a learning curve coming from TinkerCAD. I found it easier to “feel my way around” Fusion360’s UI. FreeCAD has a layer of, “How did Open Source devs decide to be different here?” on top of learning something new.

This is pretty typical for universities. They don’t want the airwaves clogged, doubling up NAT can lead to networking wonkiness, and they don’t want you giving university network access to unauthorized folks with an open AP.

When you say VR streaming, you just mean wireless from your PC to the headset, right? There’s a chance you could do that with an offline wireless router if the VR experiences you’re looking to play are single player.

Understood. Have a pleasant day.

Unfortunately most of the PCB fab companies only print off PCBs in at least batches of 5. I bought enough parts to make two cart readers and split the costs with a friend to help drive the price down into the low hundreds.

I don’t know which number you were looking at when you saw the Sanni was “so expensive”. You can get an assembled Sanni v3 for about $150 online. https://savethehero.builders If you join their Discord, there’s also folks selling Sanni v5 DIY part kits for $110-130 depending on what add-ons you go for. https://store.starshade.dev/product/oscr-hw5-complete-kit-diy It’s still a pretty penny, but significantly less than some of the $250 pre-assembled stores online.

I wasn’t able to find anything definitive online, but its specs and functionality sound pretty close to BennVenn’s Joey N64 cart reader/writer. https://bennvenn.myshopify.com/products/joeyn64-cart-flasher

I can’t help much on the power draw side of this question, but one thing to look out for with a UPS is some sort of communication option. (Usually NUT over ethernet, but there are some USB options too.) Most modern UPS brands will have a plugin you can install on your Raspberry Pi and Mini PC that allows your UPS to signal, “Hey, I’ve got 3% of battery life, you actually need to gracefully shut down now.” It’s mostly useful for NAS applications with spinning drives, but it could help save your Pi’s SD card potentially.

It’s a pretty standard feature these days, but the cheapest of the cheap will omit it.

What are you talking about?

It’s still surreal to see OpenAI’s need for training data be so vast that they casually developed and open sourced a generational leap in transcription technology just so that they could scrape online videos better.

NuPhy’s got some interesting options as well. https://nuphy.com/collections/keyboards/products/halo75-v2-qmk-via-wireless-custom-mechanical-keyboard

The low profile space is a little tricky. It leans into column staggered ergonomic boards really quickly. Kailh’s Choc switch is as low as you can go, but those folks get really custom really quick. They’re not big on function rows or arrow clusters, so the next step after Keychron or NuPhy would be something along the lines of the Afternoon Breeze. https://www.afternoonlabs.com/breeze/

Have you taken a look at any of Keychron’s offerings? https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-k3-max-qmk-via-wireless-custom-mechanical-keyboard Checks most of the boxes other than the knob.

Long Switch can’t hurt you. Long Switch isn’t real.