Nvidia shield with a custom launcher. Google updated their Android TV home which made 60% and More of the dashboard just ads so I added projectify as my launcher. There are now only 2 apps being shown on my screen. Plex and Google Play (for updating apps).

It goes even beyond that.

With a dedicated app, you go into the store and install it and then you have it in your apps that you then can place everywhere.

With a website, you need to have the browser, navigate to that website each time. And yes, you could put a link to that website on your home screen as well but not many user are probably aware of that being an option.

I know that but I still would prefer a dedicated app because it is easier to manage and use more features of my phone. For example, I just tried it on my android phone and the link to a website always opened a new tab in my Firefox.

Then I can manage the notifications of that app depending on what I want it to notify me about.

I can’t do that specifically for a single app or website in a browser.

On the other hand, I also wouldn’t want to miss a website because I am not always on my phone and, in some cases, it is way more annoying to do something over the phone because I am just not used to it (like writing this comment). Doing that over a website version that I can access on my PC is much easier and convenient.

The problem with brushing on resin is actually not that great because resin for printers will need to be cured. Unless that material is letting the UV light through, only the outer parts will get cured and hold onto the models but when you open it up again the whole middle part would be liquid resin again which stinks and is toxic.

I had this misunderstanding for quite a while myself and though that I can just weld resin party with resin together until I did that with a larger piece and it broke quite easily and seeing that the whole inside wasn’t even touched at all by the UV light.

Hence also why you should shine some UV light into a hollowed model to fully cure it.

CA/superglue should do fine if applied correctly.

OP wants to connect a Resin print to a PLA print, not two Filament-printed models together!

Connectivity or rather the lack of it…

I have a Samsung TV and recently got a new cooling fan and now when I start the fan when my TV is on, it says it detected a new device. I don’t know what my TV would want with a fan maybe control the speed for more immersion?

But there is also no way for me to disable that. I also got regular requests of my neighbor’s to connect to my TV until I disabled the notification for it. No I could disable that my TV doesn’t even allow it to be seen, I had to enable to not automatically connect devices and disable that notifications are being shown. That thing isn’t even connected to the internet.

My phone still doesn’t know what fuck means or suggests it to me when I want to write it even though I use it fairly often. I also daily greet my coworkers over threema and it still hasn’t learned what I want to write when my sausage fingers and the too smal keyboard are at a disagreement what should be written.

Depends. I recently was in that situation and it was easier and more cost-effective to just print them.

I recently bought some Lego Star Wars sets and printed out some Display stands for them but the connection between the stands and the model was expected to be a 2x4 Lego plate. I didn’t have those plates at hand so I looked online and found it from the official Lego site.

The individual “Plate 2x4” would cost 0.14EUR each. Since I needed 3 this would be 0.42EUR. But the mailing costs would be over 9EUR.

So ordering 3 of those Lego pieces would cost me almost 10 bucks. I just printed them out which worked well, they were a bit tight fit but are still holding.

But I wouldn’t necessarily say that this is a replacement for actual Lego pieces. As a quick alternative that you can’t see or that has less interaction with other pieces (doesn’t need to fit correctly on all sides) then I think this can work.

so, sooo much.

I currently print some stands for some Lego spaceships. I also have over a TB of models from various Patreons that I support accumulated over the months. I also always find new ones I want to print, but rarely find the time to ACTUALLY print something, anything…

Could also be “Continous Integration” (from CI/CD - Continous integration/Continous deployment/delivery)

judging by the “Why build a new CI?” section their old “CI” was built on Azure DevOps so I would go with Continous Integration here.

While this would be funny to watch, it would help Linux at all, quite the opposite actually because many have the impression of Linux in exactly that way.

So something like this would have to have a huge asterisk and constant clarification that this is “not the general state of Linux”

as a player, Streaming boxes that have an Android OS are great but Google Supplies Android TV as the default launcher with those devices which has gone downhill for a while now.

80% of your UI is now covered with Ads.

So if you switch to something like an Nvidia Shield or something like that definitely use a different launcher instead of Android TV. I currently use the Projectivy Launcher which is so god damn clean and only contains what I want to see.

I had the pleasure recently to create an ffmpeg command to transcode a video into HEVC 10bit with quicksync.

I had tha previously running completely fine on my Nvidia GPU. You would think that it would just be replacing the parameter which device or hardware acceleration to use.

Yeah, turns out that there are like 4 ways to set the quality value of the transcoded output, CRF didn’t work for some reason with quick sync so you need to use global quality or something. I spend days on this trying to figure this out, DAYS.

It is a very powerful tool but every time I have to use it, it is too complicated and I have to spend hours or days to get it working.

Yeah. The general speed that you set isn’t necessarily the speed that your printer will print at. That might be the max speed you might get in the best situation or location.

For example, depending on the settings, first layer, outer walls, bridges and other parts of the model cann all be printed at a lower speed to preserve quality. Your print head also needs to accelerate and decelerate for every corner so that it doesn’t overshoot and go where it should. So low acceleration/deceleration play also a part. And the model itself has to be considered in this too because long, mostly straight lines can accelerate to that speed and stay on it for longer.

So what you set as “speed” in the slicer is mostly not what you actually get. Some slicers have a speed display with a colour gradient after you sliced it so that you can see which parts are faster or slower.

The only thing you can really do about it is to do test prints and slowly push the speed up as far as you can to get a decent quality at a nice speed. But you can still end up in parts where you would be fairly slow.

So this is just for the “looks” or am I missing something here?

Doesn’t seem to do anything for adhesion which I wouldn’t consider to be a replacement as the title implies it is…

Unless, of course, you are looking for a different bottom surface finish.

Hatte ich jetzt am Wochenende ein ähnliches Erlebnis.

Ich war auf einer Geburtstagsfeier und zu mir nach Hause ist nicht schwer zu erreichen aber mit mehrmals umsteigen verbunden (dafür hält der Bus quasi direkt vor der Haustür). Ich schaue also auf meine App um zu sehen wann ich am Bahnhof sein muss und sehe da eine Verbindung: 1.5 Stunden Fahrtzeit, 2x umsteigen. Super. Die einzelnen Züge/Busse waren jeweils mit “Live” bezeichnet. Also sagt mir das “die kommen”.

Ich stehe dann am Bahnhof und es kommt die Durchsage das die Bahn die ich nehmen wollte “ausfällt, wegen Verspätung aus vorheriger fahrt”. Klasse.

App meinte aber immer noch, dass diese Bahn “Live” ist also kommt.

Ich dann geschaut als alternativ Verbindungen und dann konnte ich nur 20 Minuten später eine Bahn bis zum nächsten Hbf (Bonn) nehmen, von dort dann aus umsteigen bis zum nächsten Hbf (Köln) und von dort dann aus weiter bis nach hause.

Von einer geplanten 1.5 Stunden “Reise” wurden es dann einfach mal wieder 2 Stunden. Gut, nur 30 Minuten später ist jetzt nichts welt bewegendes aber bei einer Strecke von Bonn nach Köln ist das schon echt nervig.

Aber viel schlimmer finde ich es, dass wir es schaffen Geräte zu entwickeln die wir auf den Meter gut finden können (Apple Airtags) und es gleichzeitig es nicht schaffen dass die verkackten Bahn Apps absolut keine aktuelle und verlässliche Aussage treffen können ob die Bahn jetzt kommt oder nicht.

Aber was erwarte ich denn im Digitalisierung Neuland Deutschland…

Yes, something like this I was thinking about. A boom arm or pole or something like that would then reach over the printer and the retractable badge holders could hold the cables and feed tube up without interfering with them that much.

I specifically moved the filament feed tube to the front so that the whole thing is more accessible and easier to handle, by default the whole stuff is at the end but I found it too annoying to always have to grab/reach through my printer under the bed to do anything with the filament.

I did try using a spare PTFE tube for the cables but this didn’t really help that much. But I must say, I have fewer issues with the cables, the filament feed tube is more of an issue I want to address.

Yeah, I have seen this and played with that Idea for a while but never really could find something that would fit or work with how my setup is constructed. Since I have an Exoslide, custom shroud and so on, those Cable Chains are mostly designed for stock parts.

And I am by far not skilled enough to make the adjustments or remix those things myself.

Thanks, I added an image link to the original post.

Well, what is the worst that could happen?

Even if it is the identical gear, you probably would get the same value but you are sure that it is correct since you calibrated it. On the other hand, not doing the calibration because you think it is the identical gear you could get over or under extrusion and are wondering why it happens because “it should be the same gear” and possibly look in the completely wrong direction trying to fix the result.

There is not really any harm in checking and being sure instead of assuming and then having to deal with the result.