If it doesn’t work by default, long press the app, go into app info, scroll to advanced, enable exploit protection compatibility mode.

I’ve tried a lot of different tab management systems. Multiple tree tab extensions, a couple that build off the built in container system, a few different non plugin browser tweaks, and some random other crap for stacking or deactivating idle tabs. None of them fully feel right for me.

I forgot what the current thing I’m using is called and I left the computer at work but it groups tabs into workspaces and has some sort of container integration I haven’t fully investigated. It seems lacking performance wise though.

I generally have around 1500 tabs at any time for various topics of research, news or updates for various things. More often than not I find horizontal tabs to be a hindrance and the only thing that could make them worse is if they shrank to triangles and made a sawblade like chrome tabs.

I had enough of Nvidia when they dropped support for the GTX 460 in windows and Linux and I had to swap out the card to do anything meaningful on the computer. Nvidia, keep your taint away from my kernel!

Edit: make sure the wires in the screw terminals on the pcb don’t have solder on the ends. Clip it and strip it to bare wire or put crimped ferrules on the ends. You can get arcing and fire from the solder softening and the wire slipping out.

All metal or bi metal heat break, or just replace the whole hotend with one of those ceramic heater ones.

Printed locking notched bed level wheels. I used one that had a number of teeth to match the rotation suggestions from the klipper screw adjust macro that uses abl to measure how much to turn each one.

Magnet bed plates. I have smooth matte pei, textured pei, gloss peo, unknown generic textured black stuff, and something else I can’t remember. Different filaments work better or worse on different bed materials and get great results without derpy hax like glue stick. I generally do abs on matte and everything else on tex or super smooth.

Printed abl. I use klackender. It calls for jap omron mouse click switch but I used kailh gm8 as a drop in replacement and it works great.

After trying pretty much every z mod I went with belted z from same website/discord/git as klackender. Single and dual drive dual rod and pom nut etc all skipped every now and then but now any print problems are from other causes. It’s a bit involved but effort and cost to returns is better ratio compared to the switchwire conversion…

Klipper. You can use basically any computer. I have one on a rpi zero 2 and one with a Dell computer that came with windows but is worse than a bad Chromebook. Both use dietpi as the os and kiauh to set up klipper and mainsail.

Found someone probably around the same age as me lol.

The best part of klipper for me is being able to change pretty much any setting in a text file and restart and it works without having to screw around with SD cards, or firmware filenames, or compiling other than the first time.

I got CompTIA a+ when the exam had windows XP specific questions. Maybe it still does, I dunno. Anyways in the jobs I applied for nobody had even heard of it. The interviewers were mostly professional interviewers and not IT staff as far as I could tell though. I also ended up hating IT work which always had an infinite supply of clueless managers in every job.

If I was nearly as in to gaming as I was back in the day I would dust off and raise my jolly old flag.

I think proton needs steam to work properly but wine proton has proton patches without steam dependency

I’m pretty sure there are wine builds with all the proton enhancements that aren’t in normal wine yet. I feel like I saw in lutris or bottles or both but you can surely get it other ways too.

I’d recommend the prusa. Easy to get help official or otherwise, generally just works, easily fixable with easily acquired parts in most parts of the world.

Bambu is excellent until you have any problem then it’s about as annoying as constantly modifying and never actually using an ender 3

I have a kindle I got in 2020 and no idea where it is. I also have a Kobo Libra 2 that I take with me everywhere. If you don’t want to constantly battle with jailbreaking get a Kobo. The two books I have on Amazon I transferred on with calibre and dedrm plugin

I was looking for ZigBee valves before but didn’t find anything. I was also considering using an Arduino like board with ZigBee and making my own but never actually got around to it. My plants all died when work picked up but I might be trying again once work things stabilize

Thanks. Also to everyone else that replied. I’ve put it in my list of things to test out if I ever get time

This is how I feel about so many things I try to read up on.

Is there a description of what this is and what it is for for dumdums? I don’t really get what it is from the website.

I have no idea what this is but workaround fixes for dumb code that will never be patched are always good

Still could be considered a work around and may require pirating but this exists

https://github.com/openblack/openblack

I haven’t tried it myself yet though since the setup seems like a bit of a hassle.

This is really silly but that’s probably a good thing

I’m not 100% on eu but for most wired in ZigBee devices you want 3 wires for it to be always on. 2 wire I think some people have made work anyways using a capacitor or something but that’s too sketchy for my liking. Sometimes the corresponding light recepticle has 3 wires instead, at least in one of my previous homes in Canada, and I was able to put the ZigBee switch in there instead. My current house is about half and half 2 and 3 wire and I’m just shit out of luck on those because the ceiling boxes are all 2.

Sorry 2 or 3 plus ground which is bare here. Edit: also I think the capacitor was to prevent the 2 wire versions of the switch, which are different, from flickering