

Ah, gotcha. That sucks.
Ah, gotcha. That sucks.
Retina is marketing speak for “pixels small enough to be individually indistinguishable by the human eye at proper viewing distances.”
Really? I’ve never had an issue. Libby sends me directly to Amazon to “check out” the book, so I don’t have to upload it to the Kindle manually.
refurbished older iPads with an excellent OLED screen
The only iPads with OLED screens are the current generation of iPad Pro with the M4 chip. Every other iPad is an LCD screen (very good LCD, with deep blacks and very good local dimming, but still LCD).
FWIW, OrcaSlicer isn’t blocked (except on the H2D, and that may change eventually) on newer firmware, it just has to go through Bambu’s network protocol, same as their own slicer. But OrcaSlicer installs that for you.
(I’m not defending Bambu Lab’s practices here, just want us to be accurate.)
Yes, the 4:3 image is the proper scene.
Beautiful
Cursed stretched 16:9 Dr. Cox
The one near me that does this had this gem recently:
“I studied dad jokes in college - I majored in sighence”
Enclosure makes printing some plastics much easier/safer, and it’s become common/inexpensive enough to be a “default” option, especially with options like the Carbon being so affordable.
But the tool has to fit its purpose. If you only print PLA/PETG, then it’s not really necessary. I mostly leave the door off my printer, and only attach it when I need to print ASA or ABS.
I might be seeing it wrong, hard to tell from just this perspective, but could it be placed so the entire side, or entire back, is making contact with the bed? Increasing your contact surface can help dramatically as I said in my other reply.
Check your bed adhesion (clean the bed with detergent and hot water, and I recommend a quick wipe with 91% IPA before each print) to prevent the model rotation seen in this picture, but in general parts with that little bed contact can be difficult to print correctly. If you can’t find an orientation that fits on the bed with more surface area, then slow the print down to minimize forces pushing the print. While supports help, they don’t hold onto the print as firmly as the bed does (on purpose).
I’ve run into some frustrating issues with small contact points with print beds. Another option is to use a smooth PEI plate and use a glue stick or Bed Weld or something to help improve adhesion.
I still suspect the entire thing was a marketing ploy. That they had no intention of ACTUALLY changing the logo. They just wanted people to push back so they could get in the news. I wouldn’t be surprised if the marketing firm that made the logo also started the backlash.
I suspect the same is true about American Eagle’s Sydney Sweeney ad.