This guy’s channel is so awesome, glad to see it posted here. He has all kinds of cool tools that he built in his lab like a scanning electron microscope. His videos on atomic force microscopes and laser lithography are really fascinating as well, he is really great at explaining the concepts too, definitely recommend!

Well 5ghz requires more power, has less range, and needs its own antenna so for microcontrollers this makes it pretty pointless for devices that need range and low bandwidth for sending sensor updates, especially those that are battery powered. 5ghz can also have its own issues in cities if you have a lot of use of the DFS bands as well as being worse at traversing reinforced concrete.

Also, a 2.4ghz radio can also sometimes support other things like zigbee, BT, and BLE which can be used for other functions.

For what it’s worth, I have probably 50 WiFi devices and the majority of them are 2.4ghz sensors or switches and other low bandwidth tasks and I don’t have any issues, even when living in an apartment complex. If you are having issues you might need different hardware or more access points or something.

Anyway, all that to say that 2.4ghz definitely still has a lot of utility today.

Do you want to not use your DL380? IF no it might make a good moonlight host!

I don’t use unraid by my advice for everyone is that you can’t have too many backups of data that you really care about, use the 3-2-1 rule at a minimum.

Also, welcome to your new hobby you will love and hate at the same time sometimes :D

hmm the last line in the log above there says:

“[Fatal ConsoleApp: The requested address is not valid in this context. This can happen if another instance of Sonarr is already running another application is using the same port (default: 8989) or the user has insufficient permissions Press enter to exit.“

So that sounds like that the container might be running but sonarr is not. Did you ever get it working?

Your netstat command shows a process named docker-proxy using that port, which confirms what the log says. If your container isn’t running you can try to find the process using it with netstat or lsof, it might be a stale container process or something but a reboot is often faster than figuring out what it is to see if that clears up whatever is using the port.

the purpose of using nginx is to not have to use the port number in this scenario, the reason it works is because your DNS for that hostname still points to that machine that both containers are running on. Normal DNS A and cname records do not contain port information.

The 502 bad gateway error means that nginx is not able to connect to the upstream host for that hostname, this is where you need to use the port for the other container (5870). Do know that using localhost in docker will not have the results you are expecting, if these are on the same host you can use the name you have configured for the container as the hostname in nginx otherwise use the host IP, in your case it would be http://listmonk_app:5870.

Hope that helps!

Oh yeah for sure, every time I’m like “it can’t be spanning tree” it is spanning tree. Do you mean copper vs fiber? LC connectors can carry a variety of speeds but generally yeah I try to use fiber or DAC cables which are shielded wherever I can.

So then it doesn’t work across the ubiquity switch just to double check? If so, you will need to enable jumbo frames on that for sure and it is not enabled by default and that could also explain the throughput as it is having to fragment then defragment the frames to cross the switch or iperf is using MSS to determine that it can only send 1500 byte frames, your slower speed is about line rate for 1500 byte frames no matter the speed of the actual link.

ETA: you can verify this by pinging with a large size and setting the “do not fragment” flag, so something like ‘ping -s 2000 -M do ip.addr ’ on Linux, windows uses different flags.

Can you draw a picture of how you have all 3 switches connected with all of the wires? I am suspicious that you are creating a switching loop or spanning tree isn’t picking the optimal link on accident so I’m curious.

OP, this is the way. I use the Sonoff zigbee dongle with zigbee2mqtt on a spare pi located centrally in my house and it works great, home assistant is down in the basement. I have had nothing but issues with battery powered zwave devices of many brands and all of my light switches are zwave and they work fine so it definitely wasn’t a range problem. I will probably slowly replace those with zigbee switches as they die because the zigbee mesh has just been so much more reliable.

Do make sure to throw a few mains powered zigbee devices on your mesh to act as routers once you get more than a few devices on the mesh, it also helps with range and response times.

I have never tried it but I am real curious for low speed things like that, I think it would come down to your printer being able to print something small enough. There are a bunch of print in place bearing designs on printables that I have run across too.

I usually use 608 bearings for that kind of thing because they are really cheap on Amazon as well since those are used in roller skates and skateboards and stuff. I am definitely curious though so you should reply if you try it out :D

Yeah that is similar to what I was thinking but 4 individual sets of rollers, one for each spool. This version would be annoying in a drybox because all of the filament spools will probably spin at the same time which will make them all unspool since you will probably have them fed into 4 couplers and not clipped like on a shelf. Might work though if you don’t plan on having one output for each box and switching the “active” spool but I try to not open my dry boxes in general to keep air moisture out.

I mean if it’s working then it’s probably fine, two tubes would be interesting, I would think that would be a hassle when you have to take it in and out to change the filament. I ended up switching to using rollers on the bottom because of that anyway. I was going to try that one I linked before but I started designing my own similar one that used 1/2” EMT and bearings as rollers, I should finish that hah.

You can use PVC, if you are planning to hang it vs using the PVC as rollers then you will need larger diameter and maybe schedule 80 or it will be two flexible and sag in the middle. When I tested it I could get about 4 rolls on a 1.5” diameter piece of PVC before it started sagging. You might want to look at using EMT conduit for that, that’s what I switched to using for shelves and it works better.

Does not have to be spaced but any friction can cause drag if you are printing from the drybox which can be a problem depending on your extruder and how much drag.

Fitting thread size doesn’t matter if you are just screwing them into the drybox, what matters is the tube size it supports, M4 or M10 would only matter if you were using them on something that was pre threaded. For what it’s worth I just standardized on the PC4-M10 ones because there was a huge pack on Amazon that was cheap hah.

I use these bins and I want to try this roller print (not my model) because it looks real simple, I don’t print from the boxes very often though so I haven’t bothered.

Hope that helps!

I want to add a second to everything this person said, I have both a Mk3s that has some upgrades and an X1C and the difference in speed and quality is astounding. They are not kidding either, the quality out of the box is excellent. I basically only change strength related parameters anymore, the automatic flow calibration is incredible. The recent addition of the ability to skip failed parts mid print from my phone is awesome as well. I have also printed the same part with the same layer height and filament and the X1 is almost 3x as fast in “standard” preset.

Also for what it’s worth, I am probably going to replace my Mk3 with the A1 in the next few months as well.

You definitely can’t, they don’t really adhere to each other at all. Like even to the extent that you can actually use PETG as easily removable support material for PLA.

I definitely recommend Fully Kiosk Browser, it’s easily worth the 10$ license even if you don’t need the features. The integration into Home Assistant is great, you can do all kinds of things really easily to the app through HA like loading URLs and controlling the screen on and off, the integration is really superb.

ETA: I forgot, it also has a webui to manage it remotely. Also, I’m pretty sure it’s free still, I just mean it’s that good of an app that it’s worth whatever their license costs (I bought it a while ago).

For what it’s worth, I would bet finishing an FDM print with paint will be more annoying due to the layer lines before the scale would get in the way with a modern 3d printer as FDM does not produce a smooth surface finish like an injection molded part without further post processing like vapor smoothing which would also eat the details. I don’t have a resin printer though so I could be totally wrong.

Oh I didn’t know that, that’s cool, I’ll give it a whirl! Thanks for sharing.