Cleaning the print surface with warm water and soap, and then avoiding touching it with your hands, is a good start if you haven’t done so alreayd. Calibrating first layer height, flow rate, temperatures, etc. is generally the way, but if you want a quick and easy solution I gotta say that Magigoo has worked really well for me. It’s a bit expensive, but I’ve reapplied it a few times and never have to wash the bed so that one bottle will likely last a lifetime. I think you can get similar results with a high PVA content glue stick or hair spray. And there are of course other 3d print glues which I haven’t tried, I’m assuming they work equally well.

Only 3.8B parameters according to the paper, so it ought to be quite easy on the hardware as well if they do.

Did you follow some guide when replacing the nozzle and bowden tube? Did you hot tighten it when putting them back?

What speed are you printing at, which you think is too slow? What’s your acceleration?

It’s a myth that capricorn tubing is better in any way

I’d call it “successful marketing” :) But yeah, they’re really managed to convince a lot of people that it has near magical properties, and I’ve seen a lot of random people recommend it to others for all sorts of issues.

It sounds like bed adhesion might have got worse, perhaps you have touched the print surface with your fingers while removing prints? You could try removing the plate and washing it with warm water and soap. Some people use IPA but if you do then you need to make sure you really wipe it clean before it evaporates, otherwise the dissolved fats will stay on the bed. If your bed has some kind of anti-stick coating I think there’s also a risk that you damage if you use stronger solvents.

As for warping in general it could be an indication that your flow rate is exceeding your melting capacity. If you have an all metal hotend you could try printing at higher temp, if not then try reducing print speed instead.

Ahh, I thought you meant you had a 0.2mm nozzle, but now I see you probably meant layer height.

Moisture absorbtion is rarely a problem with PLA, but hopefully dehydration won’t hurt, as long as you don’t accidentally overheat it and it deforms. I’ve left rolls of PLA out in the open for 6 months without noticing any deterioration. Both your filaments used to print fine, and then the oozing spontaneously started with both of them?

2mm retraction should be more than enough for a direct drive extruder.

The only certification I have is from the Kansas City Barbeque Society, allowing me to act as a judge in BBQ competitions.

Things are probably different nowadays, but at least 15-25 years ago you could just apply for IT jobs and if someone lied about their skills it would hopefully show during the technical interviews. I don’t know if that counts as getting in very early.

What filament and other slicer settings? Could be too hot. Could be retraction settings. Did the oozing start when you switched nozzles? If it’s a cheap Amazon nozzle it might be faulty and have a different diameter than advertised. Did you follow the correct procedure with hot tightening when switching nozzles? If not, you might have got molten filament in between the nozzle and the heat break.

Easiest GUI toolkit I’ve used was NiceGUI. The end result is a web app but the python code you write is extremely simple, and it felt very logical to me.

Assuming they already own a PC, if someone buys two 3090 for it they’ll probably also have to upgrade their PSU so that might be worth including in the budget. But it’s definitely a relatively low cost way to get more VRAM, there are people who run 3 or 4 RTX3090 too.

Probably a joke, since there’s always someone commenting that the item isn’t food safe whenever a model for something food related.

It’s not easy trying to research which 3d printer to buy, there is more click bait and marketing than impartial reviews out there, and search engines tend to promote the garbage. And without a lot of 3d printing experience, it can be difficult to know if a “review” is paid for by the printer’s manufacturer, or just trying to trick you into clicking their affiliate links. There are also no consistently good brands if you’re looking for a cheap printer, pretty much all of them have produced a few good printers and others that have more flaws. For example old Ender 3 and Ender 3 Pro were very good at the time, and Creality built up a lot of brand recognition, but then they switched to low quality components and seemingly stopped doing quality control and made a bunch of crap. Now it might be turning around again, as Creality’s latest printers are starting to look decent again, although perhaps a little overpriced.

Personally I use this spreadsheet to compare pros and cons of budget printers. It’s maintained by a group of users at a 3d printing discord server, and while one cannot know for sure none of them have any ties for example to Sovol (the most recommended budget brand currently), they’ve seemed quite impartial to me so far.

I think a 650 W PSU should be enough for a workload of 490 W idle. Please, correct me, if I am wrong.

You mean 490W under load, right? One would hope that your computer uses less than 100W idle, otherwise it’s going to get toasty in your room :) I would say this depends on how much cheaper a 650W PSU is, and how likely it is you’ll upgrade your GPU. It really sucks saving up for a ridiculously expensive new GPU and then realizing you also need to fork out an additional €150 to replace your fully functional PSU. On the other hand, going from 650W to 850W might double the cost of the PSU, and it would be a waste of money if you don’t buy a high end GPU in the future. For PSU, check out https://cultists.network/140/psu-tier-list/ .If you’re buying a decent quality unit I wouldn’t worry about efficiency loss from running at a lower % of its rated max W, I doubt it’s going to be enough to be noticeable on your power bill.

I’ve always had Nvidia GPUs and they’ve worked great for me, though I’ve stayed with X11 and never bothered with Wayland. If you’re conscious about power usage, many cards can be power limited + overclocked to compensate. For example I could limit my old RTX3080 to 200W (it draws up to 350W with stock settings) and with some clock speed adjustments I would only lose about 10% fps in games, which isn’t really noticeable if you’re still hitting 120+ fps. My current RTX3090 can’t go below 300W (stock is 370W) without significant performance loss though.

If you have any interest in running AI stuff, especially LLM (text generation / chat), then get as much VRAM as you possibly can. Unfortunately I discovered local LLMs just after buying the 3080, which was great for games, and realized that 12GB VRAM is not that much. CUDA (i.e. Nvidia GPUs) is still dominant in AI, but ROCm (AMD) is getting more support so you might be able to run some things at least.

Another mistake I made when speccing my PC was to buy 2*16GB RAM. It sounded like a lot at the time, but once again when dealing with LLMs there are models which are larger than 32GB that I would like to run with partial offloading (splitting work between GPU and CPU, though usually quite slow). Turns out that DDR5 is quite unstable, and I don’t know if it’s my motherboard or the Ryzen CPU which is to blame, but I can’t just add 2 more RAM. I.e. there are 4 slots, but it would run at 3800MHz instead of the 6200Mhz that the individual sticks are rated for. Don’t know if Intel mobos can run 4x DDR5 sticks at full speed.

And a piece general advice, in case this isn’t common knowledge at this point; Be wary when trying to find buying advice using search engines. Most of the time it’ll only give you low quality “reviews” which are written only to convince readers to click on their affiliate links :( There are still a few sites which actually test the components and not just AI generate articles. Personally I look for tier lists compiled by users (Like this one for mobos), and when it comes to reviews I tend to trust those which get very technical with component analyses, measurements and multiple benchmarks.

It’s not that bad. Of course I’ve had a few games that didn’t work, like CoD:MW2, but nearly all multiplayer games my friends play also work on Linux. The last couple of years we’ve been playing Apex Legends, Overwatch, WoWs, Dota 2, Helldivers 2, Diablo 4, BF1, BFV, Hell Let Loose, Payday 3, Darktide, Isonzo, Ready or Not, Hunt: Showdown to name a few.

For LLMs it entirely depends on what size models you want to use and how fast you want it to run. Since there’s diminishing returns to increasing model sizes, i.e. a 14B model isn’t twice as good as a 7B model, the best bang for the buck will be achieved with the smallest model you think has acceptable quality. And if you think generation speeds of around 1 token/second are acceptable, you’ll probably get more value for money using partial offloading.

If your answer is “I don’t know what models I want to run” then a second-hand RTX3090 is probably your best bet. If you want to run larger models, building a rig with multiple (used) RTX3090 is probably still the cheapest way to do it.

What kind of issues do they have? I’ve used gtx970, 1080, rtx3080 and now 3090 and I’ve never had any issues worth mentioning.

Is max tokens different from context size?

Might be worth keeping in mind that the generated tokens go into the context, so if you set it to 1k with 4k context you only get 3k left for character card and chat history. I think i usually have it set to 400 tokens or something, and use TGW’s continue button in case a long response gets cut off

And CLion’s new UI… and Cura slicer… and discord with default settings… and most websites… it seems to be a cornerstone of “modern” UI design, and personally I hate it too.

llama.cpp uses the gpu if you compile it with gpu support and you tell it to use the gpu…

Never used koboldcpp, so I don’t know why it would it would give you shorter responses if both the model and the prompt are the same (also assuming you’ve generated multiple times, and it’s always the same). If you don’t want to use discord to visit the official koboldcpp server, you might get more answers from a more llm-focused community such as !localllama@sh.itjust.works

No and I hate it :( Even if there are a few legit review sites still around it’s near impossible to find them among all the fake reviews being pushed by search engines