Yeah, it’s part of a shoe rack. It doesn’t need to be that thick, but you know it’s just a matter of time until someone uses it as a step stool.
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Hm. That sounds easy enough to try!
I’ll experiment with the bevel idea. That’s one I haven’t heard of.
Throwing a cardboard box over it is a cheap and easy test. I’ll give that a try!
I need to make two more prints of this model. I will give the Thin Cut idea a try!
Ah, no. I forgot to mention I do not have an enclosure.
I just upgraded mine yesterday. I was also surprised at the speed.
I’m super interested in seeing how it handles bridges.
mcavoya@lemmy.worldto
3DPrinting@lemmy.world•I know it doesn't look like much, but this is 2 separate prints fused into oneEnglish
0·6 months agoPlease share your future project. I’d love to see a practical use case.
mcavoya@lemmy.worldto
Technology@lemmy.world•How many products does Microsoft have named ‘Copilot’? This is a map with all of themEnglish
10·6 months agoOkay. Now I dare you to count up all the Samsung “Galaxy” products.
WOW! That is super even. I looked at mine with a FLIR attached to my phone, and it had definite hot spots. It might be time for a new heat bed.
I am impressed that the edges of your build plate are hot enough to keep the corners from curling up. This is a problem I fight on any print that is close to an edge.
I don’t like pouring in sand during the print. It’s too easy for the fans to blow it all over.
I use gyroid infill and leave a hole in the bottom. Then pour in casting plaster after the print is removed from the bed. Let dry and sand smooth.
I use casting plaster from a local hobby store. A little messy, but easy cleanup with water.
I use the gyroid infill and leave a 25mm hole in the bottom. Slightly over-fill then sand flat after it dries.
Adds a pleasant heft and is super easy to use.