It’s also used for sending huge amounts of data long distances. “Never underestimate the bandwidth of a station wagon full of tapes hurtling down the highway.” That’s usually attributed to Andrew S. Tanenbaum, but wikipedia follows that with “other alleged speakers include…” so take that with a grain of salt. They do note that the first problem in his book on computer networks asks students to calculate the throughput of a Saint Bernard carrying floppy disks.
I’d say it’s more like Premiere vs ffmpeg.
I wouldn’t really call it a favorite, but I definitely ended up liking Nier: Automata pretty well after bouncing off it really hard when trying it at a friend’s house. That’s because we were trying from the start, and it starts with a section that’s about half an hour long, with only two checkpoints, vastly harder than anything else in the game, and in which the first half isn’t even the same genre as the rest of the game. It’s seriously one of the worst intros I can think of in a video game. The rest of the game is, y’know, a pretty good third-person action RPG.
The timeline should be at the bottom of the editor window, if you're in the default design workspace. If you started in the mesh editor workspace then "design history" might be turned off, in which case you wouldn't have a timeline. It looks like this:
https://help.autodesk.com/cloudhelp/ENU/Fusion-Assemble/images/animation/timeline-groups.gif
If some of the icons are highlighted in yellow, those have errors, so, things like broken projection links, or missing objects for some operations. You can usually fix those and patch things up.
Edit: oh, sorry, just realized you were working from someone else's file. That might not have design history turned on. The person who told you how to edit the extrusion operation has the right idea.
Did you get any warnings or errors when you changed the parameters? Are any of the elements in your timeline highlighted in yellow?
Fair enough, I only got in to the hobby around 2015. But site issues were another reason that a lot of folks migrated to printables recently, so I do think it's possible that's part of what Fogle was referring to.
FWIW though, I suspect that a lot of the folks here in the Fediverse do actually care about open source, open standards, and the value in defending truly public resources.
Well, also just that the site had kind of deteriorated from lack of maintenance–the search didn't work (you had to use Google with site:thingiverse.com), model pages were incredibly slow to load, etc. They've fixed a lot of that recently, but for a year or so it seemed borderline unusable.
Could still be temperature if the thermistors on e printers read differently–that is, the same setting doesn't necessarily work out to the same physical temperature on two printers, even if they're the same model, because the thermistors vary. My suspicion would be that you're printing a little hot, and the filament is contracting after it's extruded. On the first few layers it can't shrink much because of all the material in the middle, but on the vase mode layers there's nothing preventing it.
Another possibility is that your overlap percentage between your infill and perimeters is too high. This leads to something that basically is overextrusion, but it's usually visible as more of a ripple.
A third possibility is that it's just the filament.
It also doesn't with with PLA and ABS. Same issue, they won't stick together well.
And when you say "laser or printer" here, are you referring to a 2d printer, or a 3d printer?
The questions are because, fundamentally, a wireframe image like the one you linked is just a different way of rendering the same file. So if what you want is literally an image like this, then there are tools to do that, which will depend a bit on what operating system you're using. Blender, as mentioned in another comment, is one such option.
If, on the other hand, what you want is a 3d printable structure that resembles a wireframe rendering of the object, that's a more complicated task. The STL file just lists the triangles that make up the surface of the object; in order to make a solid structure that resembles this, you'd need to create a solid (e.g. a cylinder, maybe with balls at the ends) for every edge in the file (3n / 2 edges for n triangles, since every edge in a properly printable ["manifold"] STL is shared by two triangles) and then takes a boolean union of all of them. I don't think a tool to do this exists currently, as it's a rather specialized need, but it wouldn't be too hard to throw together a python script that could take an STL file and generate an OpenSCAD script that you could then render with OpenSCAD to get the STL.
So, one thing to consider is whether you could have remnants of a previous filament getting stuck in your hotend and carbonizing and causing partial clogs. That depends a bit on what you were running just before running this filament. If this is the issue, a cleaning filament can help. Another possibility is that your nozzle isn’t tight against the heatbreak, in which case plastic can accumulate there and cause issues. The only way to fix that is to disassemble the hotend and put it back together correctly–this usually involves tightening the nozzle when it’s hot, but check the details for your specific printer.
But yeah, it could also just be bad filament. That’s probably the easiest thing to fix, anyway.
Sure. You can always include both as well. Folks who don’t have CAD software may not be able to use the STEP files.
Lots of people post STLs because you can feed them directly to the slicer for printing. But it only represents the surface mesh of an object, and only as polygons. A STEP file basically captures how the part is designed in CAD, so it’s much better if you need to modify the part. It also gives you the original form of things like curves, where the STL would be quantized into a fixed number of polygons.
I’ve thought about this too, and for a similar reason. About a third of the way through my first sock I realized that knitting was contributing to tendonitis, at least on top of my day job which was non-stop typing. I’ve got a tub of yarns waiting for me to figure out what I’m going to do about them. I’ve watched videos from various folks about the 3d printed options.
One thing I’ve never really figured out is how the socks compare to something like a smartwool. It seems like they might be pretty prone to becoming loose. I’d be interested to hear your evaluation of the actual end product.
It mostly avoids them, but it doesn’t necessarily do that on the first layer, and it does a big travel at the end to park the print head. You could probably get something to work if you wrote it with the FullControl Gcode Designer.
Travel moves wouldn’t work, because the wire core has to be continuous.
I think the best bet is to design a model with a cavity that the wire can snap into, and add the EL wire after the print is finished.
Oh, that’s a thought, I’m not sure how the strain gauges factor in.
I can’t find very good images of the bed mechanism in the machine, but it looks to me like there’s a separate piece for the machine that mounts the nut for the leadscrew to the bed. The easiest way to make it more adjustable might be to design and print a replacement for this part that allows you to use a screw to offset this connection slightly. You could probably get away with just making the front two adjustable and leaving the back one fixed.
Another thing that can cause this is if the extruder motor overheats. Is the cold end fan running? Is the motor hot to the touch?
Doesn’t the “missed step detection” on the Prusa printers already achieve a lot of that? I think it monitors the current to the motor and flags any abnormal behavior, without needing extra hardware on the motor.
That’s not to knock the value of positional feedback, which is clearly superior, but just to say that I don’t think this idea has been entirely neglected.