Indeed, the article was written with Backblaze B2 as the S3-compatible storage used.
Indeed, the article was written with Backblaze B2 as the S3-compatible storage used.
The manufacturer can save money by not including grills and if the speaker gets damaged they will make more money when you buy a replacement speaker.
Do you have an auxiliary power connector hooked up to the HBA? Here is the manual.
I buy samples from Atomic Filament when I don’t know which filament would work best for a project. They are 50g spools for under $4 each. It is usually enough filament to print out a filament sample card and a small test piece.
Modular ports would be great. I’d love to have two USB ports on a phone rather than a USB and headphone jack.
Use an x-acto knife or a $5 PTFE cutter for best results.
Amazing how that Saturday I set aside to build a Voron2 turned into a weeklong adventure. Then the mods, troubleshooting of mods, ERCF, and building of a Trident consumed so much more time. I guess that is just Voron Life.
no clue, mine doesn’t seem to vibrate. just one of the things that popped up when I searched for why they used to warn against it. was hoping to get a “back in my day” comment explaining why.
Great setup! I’ve heard that it is best practice to keep a little distance between servers/drives and the UPS just to be safe from vibrations or EMI. Does anyone know if this is still something to worry about?
Tree Style Tabs user checking in. It’s not hoarding when you are organized.
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Your first layer seems inconsistent. What z sensor are you using? Were these printed in quick succession or did the printer have time to cool?
My thinking is this could be due to thermal drift in your homing sensor. First print will be solid, then subsequent prints will have a warmed up sensor resulting in a different z offset. Try minimizing variables by making your preheating consistent. Or just baby step the z-axis during the print start.
The Infuse app has a connector for Jellyfin that works fairly well.
$399 with promo code SYADP2Z384
https://www.newegg.com/intel-optane-905p-1-5tb/p/N82E16820167505?Item=N82E16820167505
Do you have any pictures of the broken part?
The heat lamp did help for the couple parts I was having issues with. I now mostly use a mini trident for most of my ABS printing. The heat lamp only comes out when I need to do a large print on the Voron2.
There was a Nero3D (Canuck Creator) video a while back where he said acrylic is better at insulating than ACM so I went from ACM to acrylic. Plus the smoked translucent acrylic looks better. I bought the ACM from PrintedSolid originally and have since reused it for other projects.
I have the nevermore under my Voron2 300 and it still struggles with prints like you posted. Switching from ACM to Plexiglass panels helped improved insulation somewhat. The hack that I use in a pinch for big prints is a terrarium heat lamp with temp control hanging from the top of the printer.
RCS was a dumpster fire for years. Only in the past couple of years has Google stepped up to be the centralized force in making it work as envisioned.
quick edit to say I agree this could’ve been avoided if Apple had made iMessage for Android, but I just wanted to point out the blame is shared by poor implementation across the board.