It’s a trivial repair assuming that’s the extent of the damage and there’s not any quirks associated with an extremely complex medical device that has no documentation whatsoever. Like maybe after not having the controller’s power supply connected for such a length of time there needs to be a calibration process upon bringing it back to life that can only be done with proprietary software

The biggest thing though is that by going in and fixing it yourself you open yourself to the possibility that the company will now say “oh this was worked on by someone else and that’s why it’s broken, we won’t work on it now”. That’s the state of repair rights in America, vendors are openly hostile to people who fix their own things even if they do it sufficiently. We used to have political representation that gave us regulations to allow us to work on and even modify our cars without impacting the warranty but that’s been eroded and there’s not really anything of that nature for tech stuff (other than judgements saying broken warranty seals don’t count for anything)

What kind of tv? For webos it’s potentially a bit complicated but also potentially stupid easy depending on which version of webos your tv has

https://www.webosbrew.org/rooting/

I would strongly suggest avoiding nvm even if it’s supported unless you’re very comfortable with hardware hacks. The others are all software and fairly easy to do if you’re capable with following instructions. The most recent, dejavuln, is fairly simple but can be a bit finicky (you may have to try a bunch of times) but lg is also rolling out patches for it so if your tv is updated you may be out of luck. It’s hard to say because the patches aren’t rolled out unilaterally. Webos is a bit confusing and there are many “branches” that all have similar features but wildly different numbering. If your tv is patched block updates by either disconnecting from the internet or blocking the above sites in your router and watch the webos homebrew discord (linked on that site). There are people actively researching new exploits and if one pops up it’ll be discussed in the discord first (and if it’s a big deal, like they expect it to be patched, they usually ping everyone to let them know to do it asap)

As if android tv isn’t also loaded to hell with ads and reliant on streaming networks that basically all have increasingly obtrusive ads

Either only buy physical or pirate all of your media, set up a jellyfin server, set up a dns server that blocks ads (adguard, pihole) and point any device that can connect to the internet at it. Cancel all of your streaming subscriptions and use a coreelec box to watch your media from your jellyfin server. There are literally no other ways to not get obtrusive advertising.

If you have an lg webos tv like me you can keep it connected to the internet but root it, block updates in homebrew channel, install YouTube with adblocking and sponsor block, and then again make sure it’s getting dns from your ad block server. Add in custom rules for

us.ad.lgsmartad.com us.info.lgsmartad.com ngfts.lge.com lgad.cjpowercast.com edgesuite.net us.rdx2.lgtvsdp.com us.info.lgsmartad.com us.ibs.lgappstv.com us.lgtvsdp.com ad.lgappstv.com smartshare.lgtvsdp.com ibis.lgappstv.com us.ad.lgsmartad.com lgad.cjpowercast.com.edgesuite.net ngfts.lge.com yumenetworks.com smartclip.net smartclip.com

snu.lge.com su.lge.com lgtvonline.lge.com

These block ads and the last three block the update servers. The update blocking isn’t strictly necessary if you have rooted and blocked updates in homebrew channel but it will get rid of the annoying “new version” nag that pops up when you turn on the tv. You may have to clear caches on the tv

In some less common scenarios you may need the ftdi or ch34x drivers. Support for these is usually already in the kernel but if not the ftdi comes with the arduino sdk and the ch34x drivers are available

You would generally only need this for older or super cheap printers, and even then you would generally only need this if you need to reflash the firmware for some reason or refuse to print from an sd/usb. but don’t refuse to do that, even back in the days before wireless printers it was a dumb idea to print via usb

You can also use komf alongside komga/kavita to just scrape metadata automatically upon import. A bit finnicky to get going (a tampermonkey script is required to give it accessible setting on the komga page) but works very well and even has a gui for identifying results and selecting the correct option if the auto scrape fails similar to jellyfin

For the actual reader part I just use komga as a server and read through Mihon (one of the tachiyomi forks) on my ereader mostly. occasionally I’ll use paperback on my iphone (although recently I’ve been trying Tachimanga, which is basically an iOS tachiyomi fork). Loads library, can sort by tag/library/date added, reads most things very well, can sync read status with the komga server (and/or manga updates or whatever), etc.

If you have a rooted webos tv there’s an app for this in the home brew channel

https://repo.webosbrew.org/apps/org.webosbrew.inputhook/

a virus perpetuates and replicates itself infecting other executables with its code, thus the name “virus”.

this is just shitty code that crashes hard. it’s not even particularly malicious, it doesn’t destroy anything

that’s not what a virus is

It hasn’t seen a release yet, code is here:

https://github.com/arjpar/WebShield-staging/tree/ldev

I’m not endorsing it, never heard of it before this post, but this was literally the second line of the readme

That shit goes back way before reddit. It was a problem on digg, on 4chan, somethingawful and other vbulletin forums, Usenet, etc. it will be a problem here and every place that comes after

It’s easier to just agree with the group than do critical thinking. It’s easier to just repost the same stupid tired joke someone else just made than to be clever. etc

Or if you have an old machine and a enough money to by a few hard drives (which you should if you can afford a synology) throw the drives in the old machine and slap something on there. Truenas, Proxmox, unraid, etc. unraids probably the easiest but it costs money. All of them have some kind of docker/kubernetes so you can just run whatever open source version of the thing you want. Nextcloud, libreoffice, etc. you could just install some version of linux too, doesn’t need to be one of those, but those are much simpler to deploy and (most of them) are tailor made for the task

Synology can do all of this too but isn’t as expandable. Want more power to run a jellyfin server and transcode 8 4k streams at once? Plop in a gpu or better yet upgrade to an intel with quicksync for low power usage. Want 8 more hard drives? Change the case and add an hba. Want 24 more? Add another hba and a disk shelf, as long as your motherboard has enough pci lanes. It doesn’t? Upgrade it. The trade off is usability, the synology stuff is easier to use. It’s also more expensive initially, you can make a basic nas with a $50 e waste pc that an office was throwing away (though tbf you’ll probably spend a bit adding disks to it just like you would with a synology)

Depends on how much of a dork you are I guess

I would imagine there is a contingency plan for if the surgeon becomes incapacitated, eg has an aneurysm/heart attack, so they’d probably do whatever that is

Probably something like palliative care until an on call surgeon can come in and finish out whatever was going on

There were a few professional psychology related subreddits that had moderation that verified licensure to allow posting only by actually professionals and that was pretty nice

There was also askatherapist which was interesting to get unfiltered client perspectives and offer clinician feedback

Morbidquestions was an interesting sub sometimes. 80% of the time it was stupid edgelord bullshit but sometimes someone would ask a really interesting dark question

Creepywikipedia was a good one and is explained by the name

Thank god! I got this one years ago but good to know. It’s built like a fucking tank. I’m pretty sure it will last forever based on that. what I’ve read online seems to confirm it but good to know there’s a backup. Plus anything I can do to avoid Amazon is always excellent

Been to a few psychiatrists and work with a lot as a clinician. For a first meeting you should expect to give a lot of history including familial history, treatment history, substance use history, medication history, diagnosis history, trauma history, developmental history, etc. Skip any that aren’t relevant to you and if you can’t give tons of info that’s okay (eg if you don’t have tons of info on your early development just give what you can, you can skip substance use if you’ve never had issues with it, etc). description of presenting problems including what you’re coming in for but also cooccurring physical issues that may be relevant (eg chronic ailments like diabetes/gerd/migraines) as well as sleep quality.

You may not touch on all of this, it may include other stuff, depends on the doctor. Each practitioner has their own personal approach but those are the broad strokes. Assuming you’re in the USA remember your rights as a consumer: you have the right to know why you are being prescribed a medication, you have the right to know it’s side effects, and you have the right to know alternatives to it. But at the same time remember side effects aren’t always experienced and for some people being aware of them makes them more likely to occur (I am one of those people fwiw)

I have an American toilet but a Japanese toilet seat (toto washlet) and it is pretty awesome. It has a heated seat, a bidet with a built in on demand water heater (you only have to hook up cold water), it has adjustable nozzle length to make sure it gets the right spot, has soft lighting so I can use the toilet at night without turning on the bathroom lights, it has modes to oscillate and pulsate the stream which is much better than it sounds, it pre-mists the toilet when you walk up so your poop doesn’t stick to the bowl, it lifts the lid when you walk up and can lift/lower the seat with a button press, it has 2 user profiles so you can set up your preferred heating settings and nozzle length and such, and it drys your butt off when you’re done with a blow dryer. If you buy a fancy toilet it can auto flush too but I only got this bc I had a contractor friend who sold it to me for $350 bc some rich dude ordered too many for their house remodel and they were selling it as overstock or whatever. I couldn’t justify changing out a perfectly good toilet. It was already too much to spend but now if it breaks I don’t know what I’ll do because a new one is like $800-1200 and I am so used to having my ass blow dried lol