• 1 Post
  • 36 Comments
Joined 1 year ago
cake
Cake day: June 17th, 2023

help-circle
  • This is pretty great advice to get into it. I previously ran 3 poweredge 2950s but have since switched to nothing self hosted and back to everything self hosted but on a much leaner setup with a NUC and 14tb WD my book drive with a dual Noctua 4020 fan shroud I 3d printed that it absolutely needed as I killed the original drive in two weeks.

    My replica is just a 14tb in my desktop I run rsync to pull the data occasionally after checking SMART status on the primary. It’s not versioned or perfect but it works great to give me a chance to backup my jellyfin media. Everything I care about also gets backed up via restic.

    Eventually plan to run a build with the Modcase MASS with multiple drives but for now this setup has been working fantastic.



  • Really depends on the make, you can get Mitchell and AllData prior to the subscription model (takes about a TB of space, from 1980s to 2013) to help with diagrams and disassembly and reassembly. Mitchell’s wiring diagrams really are a lifesaver.

    Dealer level software/scanner combo you can get from obdii365, I got a Hyundai scanner from them and it worked well but you want to run the software in a VM or isolate it some other way and probably wouldn’t network it.

    Vxdiag is pretty solid as well for the dealer software/scanner and you can usually get via Amazon but again I wouldn’t trust the software. I have their ford one and used it with IDS to set the VIN on an electronic power steering rack.

    The software itself you can find via Google if it’s all you need but typically the scanner is very specific to the software for the dealership stuff







  • I don’t think your particular case would have any creep as it’s not mechanically leveraged in any real way.

    If you were to print something like a cupholder for a stroller or bike where it’s holding something up with some weight while in the heat is where you would notice it especially with repeated impact. Most likely wouldn’t outright fail but under constant load you would notice it starting to bend a little. That said you can absolutely over engineer it to prevent that rather than switching materials which can be a huge pain depending on the printer.

    I did my hydroponic tower in PETG but it honestly would’ve been ok in PLA since it’s just a static fixture. I’ve had a PLA badge on my car for 3 years in 110+ summers and similar to you I’ve only noticed fading on the raised white lettering.


  • I’ve got 3 Wyze cam v3s running the wyze mini hacks firmware sectioned off in a VLAN that can only reach Frigate (no internet).

    I have frigate running on a cheap Lenovo M900 I got on ebay for $65 that has an i7 and 8gb of memory and it actually does fairly well without the Google coral USB TPU as long as that was the only service on that system. Trying to run Frigate on my NUC with other services without a TPU caused some issues with CPU usage but with a TPU I would bet it’ll all run on the one system.

    Home assistant works exceptionally well for notifying, one of my cameras I have on UDP since the signal isn’t great and get a couple artifacts that trip it up but other than that it has been much quicker to notify and more reliable than anything in the consumer market I’ve tried so far.


  • I’m on the 5A now and my wife has a 7, her 7 has the screen randomly freak out where you can’t even turn it on or reset (holding power will make it vibrate after about a second preventing the hold to reset). Just have to mess with it until you can get in and hit restart then it’s fine for another week or two usually.

    The 5A is fantastic until it abruptly dies which has happened to me twice now (both times while sitting with it in my hand). If they didn’t have screen and motherboard issues I would absolutely run this phone into the ground since it’s a great experience with GrapheneOS, has a headphones jack, and has the rear facing fingerprint sensor.

    I can’t speak to the 6 but I know some people didn’t like them after the 5 since it switched to tensor


  • I just used a buck converter and a USB pigtail for mine so it still plugs into the pi where the power cable used to it’s just running off the Ender 3s power supply. They were fairly cheap on Amazon something like $6 for a pack

    The only cables you really see for my printer are the short USB connecting the Pi to the SKR on the back, and the power supply cable. The rest is hidden or inside cable chains.

    Definitely made moving the printer easier and much less of an eyesore of wiring.