To avoid the gaps you can line them up with an overlap.
You can adjust the vertices of the model slightly to help facilitate this. The most natural-feeling way to do it in Blender is by using the Sculpt mode.
You can use a Boolean addition operation to then make the two models a single piece of geometry. Or not bother (if you are printing on FDM or at 100% infill in resin, it won’t really hurt either way).
I mostly print stuff for DnD and wargaming, so I just run off a few 25mm bases - I can always use them!
You have to remember that America’s political spectrum is skewed heavily to the right.
‘Liberals’ only appear left-wing because your centre ground is much further to the right than many other developed countries.
In other countries ‘Liberals’ occupy the centre ground, with the left and right wings on either side.
Ah, right.
“Mar-shuh’ness”. It’s a bit trickier to transliterate how to say the back part. It’s like the perfume company, Chanel - it’s that same “Shuh’ne” sound.
Based on absolutely nothing, my guess would be from the French pronunciation with a bit of a vowel-shift.
If you’re getting old like me, you might remember Harry Enfield’s Mr Cholmondley-Warner sketches. (And if you’re not, definitely look them up!)
Ha, honest truth!
About 30 minutes away is the similarly-named Cholmondeston (Chum-stn).
These two places are in Cheshire. There’s also the always confusing Wynbunbury (Winbry), and the birthplace of Lewis Carroll, Daresbury (Darsbry).
For the international folk who might not know, “Cholmondeley” is pronounced “Chumly”
Segue - Seg? Segyoo? No, it’s Segway.
German?
I shudder to think what the answer to this will be, but… How do you propose this should be done?
Exactly this. I still use a 0.4 nozzle and the results are more than satisfactory.
These figures were all support-free designs by EC3D, and are a joy to print.
At 0.08mm layers, you can feel the lines with a fingernail, but can’t see the from more than a few cm away.
Overhangs were the biggest issue I found. So much so that I moved back to a 0.4 after a month of faff trying to find settings that would compensate.
I use my printer mainly for minis, and figures that would print supportless on the 0.4 nozzle needed huge amounts of supports at 0.2 in order to print without missing chins etc.
That said, the level of detail that I could achieve was better, particularly on the hair, but not enough to compensate for all of the extra faff and wasted plastic.