2 systems, putting the games on my shelf with their boxes (disc games and DS games), and for cartridges games, putting their labels out, or using 3D printed stands to show the cartridge art.

I agree, though Daily appears to be much better. For the sable release I see it like GIMP to Photoshop

Not officially, but there are some github projects which help with it

Export it as a fusion file (*.f3d), you can reopen the file in Fusion and you won’t loose anything

There is cad plugins for blender. That said try FreeCAD again with the next major release. From the looks of FreeCAD daily, it’s really improved

I’ve personally switched over to FreeCAD, because of Autodesk signin policy (not this one, fusion kept signing me out forcing me to keep having to log back in). I am excitingly waiting for the next major FreeCAD release since the daily builds are looking extremely promising.

Booting up Mario Kart DS and seeing 3D on a portable game system. For years it was 2d portables, 3D consoles. But now both had 3D. My mind would have exploded if I ever saw the steam deck or switch.

This is how switched, though I’d recommend properly platform agnostic software (Windows, Mac, and Linux support) since if you don’t find Linux proper works for your workflow, you could switch to a Mac.

Another thing which helped me was switching my Laptop first before my Desktop since if I had problems (which I did) I could loose my laptop and not worry about data loss.

As of now, I am 2 year with Linux on my laptop and 6 months on my desktop with no noticeable difference between my Windows experience and Linux.

Na, learnt that lesson along time ago when my Dad was trying to help me and got my account banned.

This ^

Use to sell on eBay for years, and remember a time when we shipped a Scuzzy drive to Australia only to find ourselves in eBay court. Thankfully we kept receipts and won. But as a seller you need to be extremely cautious with what you list.

I don’t like eBay but for other reasons like 3d printed model resellers who rip models and pictures from thingiverse and sells it like its theres. Even if the model is under a noncommercial license.

It tracks it but since eBay uses the term “used” for all the category its hard to tell the difference between the box vs box+power+av vs box+controllers+power+av

Sometimes it comes with crappy third party controllers other times it comes with one legit and the other is a madcatz

So its a bit unreliable for exact prices, but good enough to get a feel for what bit should be worth.

It’s my go to when looking up game prices. That said I used eBay completed for consoles, since it doesn’t track hardware as well the last I checked.

I like giving the seller the benefit of the doubt, not everyone can be on their a game everyday.

Honestly while eBay was a nuisance it understandable why it’s set up this way. I was on the other side of this where we shipped a thing and the buyer claimed it never arrived. Which we later proved it did. And considering how rare or hard to find some items are it’s a good service.

That said I support local sellers in my area before I check eBay. Then eBay but local to my country, the international if the price is right.

For those, like me who entered this chat wondering why the hostility? Here is a great write up of what happened in 2021.

https://hackaday.com/2021/07/13/muse-group-continues-tone-deaf-handling-of-audacity/

For me, Retro gaming has always been the budget option. And outside of a few rare example where the value of the game was about to sky rocket (see Pokemon XD), I usually wait for the price to make sense to me.

For me that price is between $5 and $30 depending on the game, system, and how good that game is.

When I see Cars for the PS2 for $3.99 at a thrift store, I’m not going to say no. But $300 for the SNES version of Chrono Trigger, and the sellers, and the idiots influencers that buy from them, are out to lunch.

For these games with hyper inflated price points like Chrono Trigger, or Conkers Bad Furday, what I usually look at is re-releases or ROM collections. For a game like Conkers, you can literally buy an Xbox One and Rare Replay for less than what the cart is selling for. If you get lucky you might even get OEM controllers.

With most retro games outside of license titles getting remakes, and re-releases you should look at remakes before the original. You can probably build a sizable retro game library from the various ROM collections on steam alone. But if you want to play on the original hardware, I do advocate for Piracy of Hyper Inflated games like Pokemon Emerald. Especially since those scalped prices are not going back to the developers who made it, and Nintendo appears to have no desire to ever re-release them. So in my books they are as good as abandon ware, and one foot in the door to the public domain.

Lots of “old” games i don’t like. But Retro implies Popular, so that narrows it down for me.

If I was to choose, it would be the genera of 3D Collectathons during the N64 and PS1 era. I don’t like the idea of being given a game with no direction and be told find your own fun. The N64 was filled with these games, like Mario 64, and Banjo Kazooie, the PS1 would be like Crash.

The exception to this rule was Spyro which gave the worlds a bit of a story after the first game. Enough to know what to do in a world, so when you stumble into the side distraction you can play them if you want. At times even those have stories.

I never understood the love for ocarina of time until I played the 3ds version of it. The aesthetic just ruin the game for me. The 3ds version looks good and plays nicely.

A lot of ubisoft and ea single player games since they don’t need uplay

Case in point Assassins Creed Black flag which requires a login at the start of search session, runs flawlessly on CEMU

Oldest system, by release year its my Hong Kong 6 Switch Atari 2600. Local guy was selling it and it was in immaculate condition. Dust cover on the system, with boxed games.

At the time I was selling games and systems, so I kept the system and 2 games for myself. Don’t use it much since its a 2600, but I have it on my shelf.

Oldest system I own is my GBC, had it since before my youngest sibling was born and I still have it today. Obviously doesn’t get much use since GBA SP, but I still keep it around.

Right, lots of suggestions for Bambu and Prusa and rightfully so. But their prices are high and while they are worth it, they wouldn’t be what I’d suggest for a first time printer.

The Ender 3 is what I’d suggest, though not the V1. The S1 or the v3 and good starting points for being in budget and having some modern features.

This isn’t like the mid 2010’s where it was hit or miss and the printers will have a slight chance of burning your house down. Hictop anyone? But these days even a $200 printer is good enough to start printing.

That said software is going to be your biggest pain point.

For the slicer make sure its compatible with PrusaSlicr or Cura. Preferability the former. This makes the models to print, and some cheep third party slicers makes their own with questionable quality and support.

For modeling, you have some options. Blender if you are looking to design 3d shapes like clay. Fusion360 is a cheap and free (while limited) solution for parametric cad design. With TinkerCAD is a good in between. But like Photoshop is to gimp, Fusion 360 is to FreeCAD and it may be worth learning how FreeCAD works since its an extremely flexible tool.

TL:DR Ender 3 V3/S1, Prusa Slicer, Cura, Blender, TinkerCAD, Fusion360, FreeCAD and you should be too to start printing and making brackets.