“You need to buy this special heater pad to break the screen adhesive!”

No, I think you will find that in fact I don’t.

  • recklessengagement@lemmy.world
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    5 months ago

    Holy shit. I do a fair bit of small electronics repair on the side, the cost of a decent heat pad is about half that of a 3d printer… This may be what finally inspires me to get a 3d printer.

      • FuglyDuck@lemmy.world
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        5 months ago

        I realize this is a joke…

        But don’t do this. Really. The fdm layers are unhygienic, and there’s a not-insignificant risk of things snapping off and leading to awkward emergency room visits.

        A better solution is printing a 2 part mold and casting silicone.

        • umbrella@lemmy.ml
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          5 months ago

          glad to hear from the 3d printed sex toy experts in the house

          wont the layers transfer to the silicone?

          • FuglyDuck@lemmy.world
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            5 months ago

            You can process the inside to be smooth (sanding, priming. If you have a solvent - acetone for abs, as an example. And mold release.)

            Even just using a filler/primer should be enough

        • fruitycoder@sh.itjust.works
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          5 months ago

          I was really impressed by the lulzbot manual mentioning this! Its also important to consider that most 3d prints can be sensitive to water unless sealed too.

          • FuglyDuck@lemmy.world
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            5 months ago

            I’m just gonna assume some one printed a butplug, had it snap off leading to said emergency room visit and they tried to sue lulzbot.

            • fruitycoder@sh.itjust.works
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              5 months ago

              Idk lulzbit are also just super consumer freindly out fit (I think are still one the only 3d printer that are FSF Respect Your Freedoms certified).

    • over_clox@lemmy.world
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      5 months ago

      Not from the 3D printing world, but sometimes I’d use our heating plate to reheat pizza LOL! Gotta make sure to clean the surface really well afterwards though.

        • over_clox@lemmy.world
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          5 months ago

          Fair enough. I just ended up placing it on a paper towel, then cleaned the surface with rubbing alcohol afterwards.

    • B0rax@feddit.de
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      5 months ago

      In an enclosed chamber, I warm it up to ~37°C to allow yeast dough to rise. Works like a charm.

    • FuglyDuck@lemmy.world
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      5 months ago

      I know a guy whose cat will take naps on it.

      Used to have problems with the cat sneaking up while preheating, and being very intent on not getting off. (Even with the cold hot end poking him. It was… hilarious. Took an old i3 and sacrificed the build plate to solve the issue though.)

        • FuglyDuck@lemmy.world
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          5 months ago

          it really was hilarious watching the cat stubbornly refuse to move out the way as the bed moved back and forth and the hot end poked it. the cat had this most baleful look like it was being martyred by the machine.

          (Yes, the friend was careful not to hurt the cat.)

    • Maalus@lemmy.world
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      5 months ago

      Seeing as you can do the exact same thing with a hairdryer, it’s inventing a solution to a problem that doesn’t exist.

      • cm0002@lemmy.world
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        5 months ago

        A hairdryer or heatgun kinda work, but it’s super easy to accidentally heat damage the display underneath (and it’s sensitivity only gotten worse with these super fancy displays these days).

        It also doesn’t spread the heat very well.

        This is a great solution because the bed is temp controlled and evenly spread

      • jrgd@lemm.ee
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        5 months ago

        The heated bed is coupled to a thermistor. I’d argue controlling the temperature in order to not accidentally overheat parts of the phone is a step above a hair dryer.

        • herrvogel@lemmy.world
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          5 months ago

          Also bad is that hair dryers don’t spread their heat around very well at all. You can easily create hotspots on the object and damage things with them.

  • Gormadt@lemmy.blahaj.zone
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    5 months ago

    I’ve used mine for a lot of stuff really

    Weaken adhesive for opening a cell phone (like your picture)

    Revive a Nexus 5X long enough to patch it and transfer the data off of it (a really frustrating process BTW)

    Heat treat resin prints (place print in box, set box on bed, set bed to 80C, come back in an hour, turn bed off, wait for it to hit ambient, remove box) this process is great for hollowed prints as not only will it cause and trapped alcohol to evaporate out but it will further cure the part and increase the durability of the part as well (CNC Kitchen has a great vid on it)

    Keep my coffee warm while I was building and setting up a NAS for a friend

      • Gormadt@lemmy.blahaj.zone
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        5 months ago

        It was a very long day that started with a nice easy plan that quickly turned into “Which POS part is preventing this thing from working”

        Fun fact it was the motherboard. Though it wasn’t a consistent issue sometimes it was RAM failing, sometimes it was pcie not working, sometimes it was networking not working, etc. After swapping the motherboard everything worked beautifully.

        Yes we tried reseating the CPU, yes we checked for bent pins, yes we made sure the cables were secure. Something was fucky with the motherboard.

  • SkidFace@lemmy.world
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    5 months ago

    Opening phones and heating burritos :)

    And melting gallium when I 3D print moulds to make some silly metal objects (probably not so smart next to so much aluminium extrusion)

  • TootSweet@lemmy.world
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    5 months ago

    Doesn’t that require a much higher temperature than most beds would be able to safely achieve.

    I had to take the screen off of a Pixel not terribly long ago to replace the battery. I used a heat gun and I remember it requiring a temperature of like… 240C° or some such? And when I’m printing PLA, my printer bed only gets to 60C°. (Not saying it couldn’t go higher, but 240C° seems way higher than 60C°.)

    • ThetaDev@lemm.ee
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      5 months ago

      No, that temperature would damage your screen. The professional hot plates for phone repair are typically set to 85-90°C. With a heat gun you may need to set a higher temperature since you are only heating up part of the phone and it cools down again during the process. My printer (Prusa MK3) with PCB heater can go up to 120°C, so it looks perfect for the job.